About the year 1890, a Frenchman invented a machine similar in {22}
principle to the knitting machine, which reproduces with absolute fidelity
the work of the bobbins in making pillow laces. Through this invention he
was able to imitate such hand-made laces as Torchons, Medicis, etc., so
exactly that experts could not detect the difference. In fact, it is the
general testimony of men associated with laces for years, that the work of
this machine in a great many of its aspects is one of the most important
contributions of the mechanical arts in the production of lace.
Through the importation of foreign machines and foreign workmen, various
attempts have been made in the United States to establish the manufacture
of lace. At the present writing it is impossible to state with any
definiteness what the result will be, as the experiment has been of only a
few years' duration, and in the very nature of things is at this date of a
tentative character.
In order that the reader may be able to distinguish the various types of
hand and machine made laces, we append herewith a glossary, defining as
concisely as possible the characteristics that indicate not only the
manifold makes of laces, but what may be called the various sub-divisions.
These definitions are set forth, the writer hopes, in terms that will
enable the reader to understand what each one of the various names means,
both as applied commercially and descriptively. {23}
[Illustration: Real Point Gaze.]
[Illustration: Imitation Duchesse.]
{24}
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF LACE.
ALENCON.--A fine, needle-point lace, so called from Alencon, a French city,
in which its manufacture was first begun. It is the only French lace not
made upon the pillow, the work being done entirely by hand, with a fine
needle, upon a parchment pattern in small pieces. The pieces are afterward
united by invisible seams. There are usually twelve processes, including
the design employed in the production of a piece of this kind of lace, and
each of these processes is executed by a special workwoman; but in 1855, at
Bayeux, in France, a departure was made from the old custom of assigning a
special branch of the work to each lacemaker, and the fabric was made
through all its processes by one worker.
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