The design is engraved upon a copper plate and then printed off upon pieces
of green parchment of a specified length. After the pattern is pricked upon
the parchment, which is stitched to a piece of coarse linen folded double,
the pattern is then formed in outline by guiding two flat threads along the
edge by the thumb of the left hand, and, in order to fix it, minute
stitches are made with another thread and needle through the holes of the
parchment. After the outline is finished it is given to another worker to
make the ground, which is chiefly of two kinds: bride, consisting of
uniting threads which serve to join together the flowers of the lace, and
reseau, which is worked backward and forward from the footing to the picot.
There was also another ground called Argentella, consisting of
buttonhole-stitched skeleton hexagons.
In making the flowers of Alencon point, the workwoman, using a needle and
fine thread, makes the buttonhole-stitch from left to right, and, when she
has reached the end of the flower, throws back the thread from the point of
departure and works again from left to right {25} along the thread. As a
result, the work is characterized by a closeness, firmness and evenness not
equaled in any other point lace.
When the work is completed the threads which bind lace, linen and parchment
together are carefully cut, and the difficult task of uniting the pieces
together remains to be done. This is accomplished by means of what is
called the "assemblage" stitch, instead of the "point de raccroc," where
the pieces are united by a fresh row of stitches.
Another way of uniting the pieces, which is used at Alencon, is by a seam
which follows as far as possible the outlines of the pattern so as to be
invisible. A steel instrument, called a picot, is then passed into each
flower so as to give it a more finished appearance.
Alencon point is of a durability which no other lace can rival. A
peculiarity in its manufacture is, that it is the only lace in which
horsehair is inserted along the edge to give increased strength to the
cordonnet, a practice originating in the necessity of making the point
stand up when the tall headdresses formerly worn by women were exposed to
the wind.
Formerly Alencon point, notwithstanding its beauty of construction, could
not vie with Brussels lace as regards the excellence of floral design, but
this inferiority has now been removed by the production of exquisite copies
of natural flowers, mingled with grasses and ferns. Alencon point is now
made not only at the seat of its original manufacture, but at Bayeux, at
Burano, near Venice, and at Brussels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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