GRAMMONT.--Grammont lace, so called from the town of Grammont, in Belgium,
where it was originally manufactured, is of two kinds: (a) A cheap, white
pillow lace. (b) A black silk lace, resembling the Chantilly blondes. These
laces are made for flounces and shawls, and were used both in America and
Europe. As compared with Chantilly, the ground is coarser and the patterns
are not so clear-cut and elegant as the real Chantilly.
GUEUSE.--A thread pillow lace made in France during the eighteenth century.
The ground of this lace was reseau, and the toile was worked with a thicker
thread than the ground. It was formerly an article of extensive consumption
in France, but, after the beginning of the nineteenth century, it was
little used, except by the poorer classes. It was formerly called "Beggars'
lace."
GUIPURE.--It was originally a kind of lace or passement made of cartisane
and twisted silk. The name was afterward applied to heavy lace made with
thin wires whipped around the silk, and with cotton thread. The word
guipure is no longer commonly used to denote such work as this, but has
become a term of variable designation, and it is so extensively applied
that it is difficult to give a limit to its meaning. It may be used to
define a lace where the flowers are either joined by brides, or large
coarse stitches, or lace that has no ground. The modern Honiton and Maltese
are guipures, and so is Venetian point. But as the word has also been
applied to large, flowing pattern laces, worked with coarse net grounds, it
is impossible to lay down any hard and fast rule about it.
HENRIQUES.--A fine stitch or point, used both in early and modern
needle-point work.
{43}
[Illustration: Real Arabian.]
[Illustration: Machine Irish Crochet.]
{44} HOLLIE POINT.--A needle-point lace said to have been originally called
holy point, on account of its uses. It was popular in the middle ages for
church decoration, but was adapted to different purposes in the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries, and various makes of lace have since been called
by this name.
HONITON.--A pillow lace originally made at Honiton, Devonshire, England,
and celebrated for the beauty of its figures and sprigs. The manufacture is
still carried on at that town, where there is a lace school, but a similar
lace is made in the leading Continental centers of the industry.
(a) Honiton Application is made by working the pattern parts on the lace
pillow and securing them to a net ground, separately made. At present it is
customary to use machine-made net upon which hand-made sprays are sewn.
(b) Honiton guipure, which in common acceptation passes as Honiton lace, is
distinguished by its large flower patterns upon a very open ground, the
sprays being united by brides or bars.
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