Honiton braid is a narrow, machine-made fabric, the variety in most general
use being composed of a series of oval-shaped figures united by narrow
bars. It is of different widths, in linen, cotton and silk, and is much
used in the manufacture of handkerchiefs, collars, and some varieties of
lace.
The history of Honiton lace is more than ordinarily interesting, partly by
reason of the doubt as to whether it really was a lace of English
invention, or brought by the Flemish workmen to England. Some writers
assert the former, but the stronger probability is that the art was brought
from Flanders by Protestant immigrants, who fled from persecution.
Whichever theory is held, the development of the industry at Honiton, and
its close resemblance to other lacemaking processes in Belgium, Holland and
France, afford an excellent illustration of the interdependence of
lacemakers in all countries upon each {45} other as regards improvements
resulting from new ideas. Honiton, if it was brought from Flanders
originally, afterward repaid the debt by the beauty and celebrity of its
designs, which served as examples for Continental lacemakers. The very
attempt to protect its manufacture in England, by imposing prohibitive
duties, only increased the desire to receive foreign suggestions, and to
smuggle foreign laces into England, while the ingenuity of Continental
manufacturers succeeded in copying the best Honiton designs, and even in
improving upon them. The English lacemakers at Honiton were, however, at
first unsuccessful in their attempts to rival the best laces of the
Continent, especially Brussels. Although they had royal patronage, and the
whims and lavish expenditure of the court of Charles II were at their
service, together with protective duties, it was not until the reign of
George II and George III that English lace substantially improved. This
resulted from substituting the working of the true Brussels net ground, or
vrai reseau, for the old guipure bar ground. The patterns were also formed
of detached flower sprays, and soon the Honiton product became almost
unrivaled. This superiority continued until about 1820, when machine-made
net was introduced, and the old exquisite net ground, made of the finest
Antwerp thread, went out of fashion by reason of the commercial demand for
an inferior product. Honiton guipure is now the chief form of lace made at
that town. As regards composition of the patterns of Honiton laces, as well
as finish and delicacy of execution, much improvement has been manifested
during the last twenty years by reason of better schools for design, and
the rivalry promoted by international exhibitions.
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