Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
OAK BARK (_quercus robur_) is still an important material, but is
rarely used alone. The bark from English oaks contains from 8-14 per
cent. of tannin (quercitannic acid) as estimated by the impregnation
of a standardised hide powder in a given quantity of the tanning
material in solution. Owing to its weakness in tannin compared with
other materials, oak bark tans very slowly. Used for sole leather,
it would not produce the essential quality of firmness and solidity,
and it is now customary to use a stronger tanning material, such as
valonia, or valonia extract, or gambier in the latter stages of the
process. This is the nearest approach to the pure oak bark tannage of
former days, and, if carefully regulated, is a great improvement on
the old method.
If dressing hides and calf skins required for boot upper leather are
bark-tanned, the tannage is often completed in a sumach liquor, the
object in this case being to lighten the colour so that the leather
can be dyed evenly.
In England, oak bark is harvested in April and May, when the sap
rises in the tree. Rings are cut round the tree soon after it is
felled and the bark is peeled from the tree with a special tool which
is forced between the bark and the wood. It is peeled in narrow
strips about 3 ft. in length, and on delivery to the tannery is
stacked in huge ricks. If harvested in a good, dry condition, the
bark is said to improve with age, although analytical tests have
shown that there is always a certain loss of tannin. An old rick is
much darker in colour than a new one, owing to exposure to the air.
Coppice bark from young trees is preferred by tanners, as it is free
from ross and generally contains more tannin than the rough bark.
In view of the modern demand for materials in extract form, English
oak bark would almost certainly be preferred in the form of a
concentrated liquid, if the supply of the raw material was plentiful
within a limited area. During the last few years it has not met with
a ready sale, owing to the large supply of other materials, but it
would doubtless regain some of its former popularity if it were
prepared in the form of an extract containing about 25 per cent.
of tannin. The only oak bark extract on the market is the American
chestnut oak (_quercus prinus_).
OAK WOOD is very largely used for the manufacture of tanning extract,
especially in Hungary and Canada. The extract contains from 24-28
per cent. of tannin, and is extensively used in the tannage of heavy
leathers, as it strengthens the liquors and hastens the process,
while keeping the quality of the leather at a high standard.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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