Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
Sumach has been successfully introduced into Australia, but its
development is retarded owing to difficulties of labour, which render
competition with the European product almost impossible. An inferior
sumach (_rhus glabra_) is grown in America, chiefly in the State of
Virginia. It contains from 15 to 20 per cent. of tannin, and produces
a darker coloured leather than Sicilian, the best qualities of which
contain 27 to 30 per cent. of tannin.
A useful test for finding out if a sumach has been adulterated is to
treat a small quantity with strong nitric acid, which destroys the
structure of the leaves. The mass is washed and neutralised with an
alkali, when the appearance of the midrib and veins of the leaves of
the common adulterants are easily recognised.
Sumach is not so much used for shoe upper leather as it formerly
was, but it is the best tanning agent for many kinds of fancy light
leathers, such as bookbinding, calf, and skivers (the grain of split
sheep skins), moroccos, furniture leather, etc. It is also less
subject to the action of the air and gaslight than any other tanning
material, and is strongly recommended for tanning purposes by a
special committee appointed by the Society of Arts to enquire into
causes of the rapid decay of leather bindings. Sumach is very useful
for brightening up the colour of leather tanned with darker tannins,
and is frequently used for improving the colour of both dressing and
sole leather. By itself, it yields an almost white leather which
affords a good foundation for the most delicate shades.
GAMBIER or TERRA JAPONICA (_uncaria gambir_) is a crude extract of
a shrub indigenous to the Malay Peninsula. Nearly the whole of the
production is shipped from Singapore. The leaves and twigs are boiled
in an iron vessel, and when the mass has become syrupy it is strained
through a rough sieve into a shallow tub, where it is cooled. The
liquor is stirred while cooling and rapidly thickens. Before it sets,
it is cut into 1 in. cubes and thoroughly dried. Good qualities
contain from 50-65 per cent. of tannin. An inferior product, called
"block gambier," is made by allowing the syrupy mass to set in large
blocks weighing about 2 cwt. each. These are packed in coarse
matting. The strength of tannin varies from 30 to 40 per cent.
Gambier is a good tanning material, but its use has been declining
for some years past owing to its being frequently adulterated with
sago and other farinaceous plants. However, a pure gambier extract,
manufactured on the latest scientific principles, has been placed on
the market, and there will undoubtedly be a revival of the use of
this valuable tannin. This pure gambier is prepared at Asahan, in
Sumatra, and is guaranteed to contain a minimum of 38 per cent. of
tannin.
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