Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
MYROBALANS is the unripe fruit of an Indian tree (_terminalia
chebula_) and contains from 35 to 40 per cent. of tannin which gives
a light colour to leather. This material is useful both for light
and heavy leathers, but is generally used in admixture with other
tannins. It deposits much bloom (ellagic acid) and is largely used
for brightening the dark colour produced by other tannins. A large
quantity of this material is now made into extracts, which are
more convenient to handle and more uniform in strength of tannin.
Natural myrobalans have the appearance of shrivelled nutmegs, except
that they are yellowish in colour; they are very hard and require
a special milling machine to reduce them to powder. The quality of
myrobalan nuts varies in different districts, the best being Bhimlies
and Jubbalpores.
SUMACH is a valuable tanning material, and is used for a large
proportion of the light and fancy leathers. It is a small bush plant
which grows in Italy, Spain, Southern France, America, and Algeria,
but of the numerous varieties the Sicilian (_rhus coriaria_) is by
far the most important. Sumach is one of the few materials cultivated
on an extensive scale; most tanning materials are derived from
natural sources and, chiefly owing to the length of time before trees
reach maturity, it would not be a paying proposition to cultivate
them. The sumach shrubs are propagated from small cuttings and
the leaves can be picked at the end of the first year, but it is
better to allow the shrubs to become more firmly established before
stripping them. The leaves are dried and sometimes exported whole,
especially for the use of the silk manufacturers in Lyons; but
they are more often ground to a fine powder. All sumachs should be
ventilated to remove foreign matters and all traces of iron, which
would cause dark bluish stains on the leather. "Ventilation" is
effected by passing currents of air, preferably with a fan, through a
narrow room, when the pure sumach is sent forward, while the heavier
particles of dirt and small pieces of wood remain behind. Sometimes
the process is repeated, and the best brands of sumach are generally
described as "pure, extra ventilated." As far as possible, the male
plants (_mascolino sommacco_) are cultivated in Sicily, where the
best sumach is grown. Female sumach (_femminello sommacco_), grown in
parts of Italy, is weaker in tannin than the male, but is rarely sold
separately. The serious amount of adulteration formerly practised
by the admixture of inferior plants, and particularly of lentisco
(_pistacia lentisco_) led to the Italian Government taking strong
action a few years ago, and it is now possible, for a very small sum,
to have any consignment inspected and analysed by the Government.
Lentisco is now sold separately and is used for common work.
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