Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
The English markets do not collect enough hides to permit their close
sorting, so that, while the hides are graded according to weight and
quality and the sex of the animal, the question of varying substances
is generally ignored. There is usually a difference of 10 lb. in each
class where the hides are sorted by weight Ox, cow, heifer, and bull
hides are sold separately, as each sort has a different value. Bull
hides are comparatively poor in quality, owing to their irregular
substance and strong growth marks in the neck. Ox hides are the most
suitable for sole leather and belting, while cows' and heifers' are
used mainly for dressing hides, which are finished into bag, case,
strap, and boot leathers. The hides known as Scotch and Hereford
runts are the best of those produced in the United Kingdom, as they
are well-grown, compact, and well-suited to the making of sole
leather and belting. The grading of the weight of these hides at the
auction markets is generally as follows: 100 lb. and above, 90-99
lb., 80-89 lb., 70-79 lb., 60-69 lb., 59 lb. and less. This does not
give an ideal classification, as hides vary so much in texture and
substance, and it is quite possible to find spready hides of poor
substance and quality which would be heavier than a small but compact
and well-grown hide. It would be better from the tanner's point of
view if the hides were selected according to substance and quality.
There are not many bull hides grown in the United Kingdom, and in
many markets they are not classed by weight but simply into best and
secondary qualities. Horse hides are of even less value than those
of bulls, owing to their weaker texture and irregular substance.
That part of the skin under the mane is almost worthless, while the
flanks and sides are only useful for a secondary class of boot upper
leather, although some fairly good patent sides have lately been
produced from horse hide, which is suitable for that purpose owing
to its soft grain and pliable texture when tanned. The most valuable
part of a horse hide is the butt, which consists of the part known
as the "shell." This shell is covered with an extremely fine grain
which is not found in any other part of the hide. The well-known crup
leather is made from the shell of the horse hide.
In addition to hides, there are fairly large quantities of calf
and sheep skins sold at the weekly auctions, but veal is not such
an important article of food in England as it is on the Continent.
Sheep skins are far more numerous, as Great Britain is a big
mutton-consuming country. Home supplies of both hides and skins have
been greatly reduced, however, by the immense import of frozen and
chilled meat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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