Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished ProductAdcock, K. J.
History
Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product
Adcock, K. J.
Leather
The alum tannage, known technically as "tawing," is largely used for
kid and lamb gloves. The tawing mixture is composed of alum, salt,
egg-yolk, and wheaten flour. The proportions used vary considerably
in different tanneries, but the following is a typical recipe: 4 lb.
alum, 2 lb. salt, 1 lb. salted egg-yolk, or the yolks of twenty fresh
eggs, and 5 lb. flour for 100 lb. of pelts. The flour is made into
a paste, the egg yolk is diluted in warm water and mixed with the
flour, the salt and alum are dissolved and added, and the mixture
thoroughly stirred. A suitable quantity of water (about 2 gals. per
100 lb. pelts) is then placed in the drum tumbler, the tawing mixture
is added, and the drum revolved for a few minutes before putting the
pelts in. The process is completed in two or three hours in the case
of thin skins. It is a good plan, however, to leave them at rest
in the drum for a day, after which they are piled up overnight to
allow further combination of the tawing materials with the fibres
of the pelts. The leather is then dried out completely, damped in
clean sawdust, or by sprinkling with water, levelled by shaving if
necessary, staked over an upright knife fixed in a wooden stand
or by machine, and dried in a hot stove. In this condition, or in
the "crust," as dressers term it, the leather is allowed to remain
several weeks to "age," a most essential process for the production
of soft, and supple glove leather.
Dressing and dyeing are begun as soon as the leather is
satisfactorily aged. The skins are uniformly soaked in warm water,
dyed, and re-dressed with egg yolk ("re-egged"), to which a small
quantity of olive oil, or a sulphonated oil, is added. Some dressers
prefer to give the second tawing mixture before dyeing, but the
advantage of dressing the leather after dyeing is that the colour is
securely fixed. In "re-egging," many dressers use a similar mixture
to the first dressing. The dyeing process is of great importance,
since the colour must be fast. The leather is dyed either in the
drum or on a convex table. In the former case, the leather is
naturally coloured both sides, while, in the latter, it is stained
with a brush on the grain side only. Staining is the more difficult
method. Kid glove leather may be dyed with aniline colours, or,
as more generally practised, with natural dye-woods as a base and
aniline dye for top-colouring. The great advantages of the latter
method are economy in dye-stuffs and increased depth of colour. The
skins are first prepared for dyeing by brushing with, or drumming
them in, an alkaline solution. Stale urine was largely used for this
process, but ammonical salts are now generally preferred, if only
for sanitary reasons. The skins are then drummed or paddled in, or
brushed with, dye-wood liquids which have been carefully strained. A
large selection is available, including fustic, cuba wood, saffron,
peachwood, logwood, sappan wood, cutch, Persian berries, gambier or
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