Among the treasures of the church might fairly be included the font,
with its Byzantine reliefs, while objects of special veneration are the
relics of San Isidoro contained in an ancient silver urn, supported by
four lions, and the hand of San Martino, holding a pen, and encased in a
rich reliquary. Here also you may see a chalice of agate, the donation
of the Infanta Urraca, and (in the Sacristy) the standard embroidered
by order of Alfonso VII. with the image of San Isidoro as he appeared at
Baeza, and last displayed at the taking of Antequera in the fifteenth
century. Many other priceless treasures and relics were lost when the
church was plundered by the French; while in 1811 the building was
struck by lightning, and--as if that were not enough--white-washed
throughout!
The exterior is interesting. A doorway admits to the middle of the nave
on the south side. The arch is semicircular and triple, the tympanum and
spandrils being filled with sculpture, representing the Offering of
Isaac, the Lamb of God, figures of Saints, and the signs of the Zodiac.
‘The whole detail of this sculpture,’ says Street, ‘is very unlike that
of most of the early work I have seen in Spain; the figures are round
and flabby, and very free from any of the usual conventionality. All
this made me feel much inclined to think that the execution of this work
was at an early date, and soon after the first consecration of the
church.’ The appearance of the whole front was not improved by the
Renaissance work above this gateway--the elaborate cornice, the imperial
shield of Charles V., and the colossal equestrian statue of San
Isidoro. The Romanesque portal of the southern transept, now closed, is
adorned with a relief representing the Descent from the Cross, the
statues of Saints Peter and Paul, and other sculptures. Detached from
the church is a square tower or steeple built between two bastions in
the adjoining city wall. Generally speaking, the eastern façade is
strictly Gothic, much of it having been added to the Romanesque
framework in the sixteenth century.
The adjoining cloister is mainly of the same period and style. The
decorations are in the plateresque style, and the staircase, leading to
the council chamber of the Provincial Deputation, is a daring and
admirable example of Renaissance work. The library contains the
beautiful Bible written in 960 by the priest Sancho, ‘whose
illuminations and vignettes’ (says a native writer) ‘with their sinister
figures with black faces, curious dresses, and gloomy fancies, display
the artistic tendencies of that age of turmoil.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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