The church is in the Romanesque style, the oldest portion being the
chapel of Santa Catalina, which Street thinks was the original fabric of
Fernando I. The chapel was intended as a mausoleum for the royal family
of Leon, but twelve tombs only remain out of thirty. The only
inscriptions are on the resting-places of Alfonso V. and Sancha, the
sister of Alfonso VII. Here were buried Alfonso IV., Ramiro II., Ordoño
III. and his queen, Sancho I., Ramiro III. and his queen Urraca,
Fernando I. and Queen Sancha, Sancho the Great of Navarre, and the
murdered Count Garcia. Here, before the Pantheon was despoiled by the
French in 1808, might have been seen the marble and porphyry sepulchre
of the brave princess Urraca of Zamora, and the urns of the Moorish and
French wives of Alfonso VII. Now, the inscriptions having been wantonly
defaced, it is impossible to identify the few remaining sarcophagi.
The arches of this gloomy Pantheon are decorated with curious frescoes,
probably of the twelfth century. The crude drawing and tints rather add
to the impressive effect of these solemn paintings. Among the subjects
are the ‘Massacre of the Innocents,’ the ‘Last Supper’ (painted, as
Street points out, without the least regard to the angles formed by the
groining, and as if the vault were a flat surface), scenes from the
Passion, and the Visions of the Apocalypse--terrible conceptions. One of
the designs represents the Supreme Judge with two swords issuing from
His mouth; another shows a hand, inscribed _Dextra Dei_. The
compositions are surrounded by foliage, rich and conventional. On the
altar is an interesting ivory cross, the gift of Fernando I. and Sancha,
whose names are engraved upon the reverse. While the figure of Christ is
rude in the extreme, the foliage and figures of the four evangelists at
the back are exquisitely chiselled.
Leaving this place consecrated to wrath and tears, we re-enter the
church. The plan is roughly cruciform, an apsidal chapel projecting to
the east of each arm of the transept, on either side of the Capilla
Mayor. We are now in that part of the fabric which was built by order of
Alfonso VII., evidently on the model of St. Sernin at Toulouse. The name
of the architect is given on an inscription in the flooring as Petrus de
Deo--Peter of God. The most interesting features in the church are the
very ancient mural paintings in the Byzantine style, with the same
profusion of foliage and richly moulded capitals to be noticed in the
Pantheon. The dentated and horse-shoe arches reveal traces of Moorish
influence, showing that even in the far north of Spain architects could
not have closed their eyes and ears altogether to the doings of the
detested infidels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account