The entrance to the south transept has been entirely rebuilt, but the
original reliefs and statuary of the three doors have been preserved
and re-erected. Some old Byzantine capitals may be distinguished among
the Gothic work. The south-west door is relieved with a diaper of
fleurs-de-lys and castles, and lions and castles. The sculpture of the
tympanum is equal to that of the west front, and shows the Saviour and
the Evangelists, the twelve Apostles, and the Death of the Blessed
Virgin. The colossal statue on the central shaft is that of San Froilan,
an early bishop of Leon. Above is a row of four windows of two lights,
and an enormous rose-window.
The glory of the cathedral is its stained glass, which fills the
innumerable windows. Most of this is comparatively modern, and, though
good in tone, is inferior to the fifteenth-century glass still existing
in the windows of the Capilla Mayor, the Capilla de Santiago, and the
north transept. The three rows of windows reach high up to the vaultings
of the roof, those of the chapels being of two lights, those of the
clerestory of four. It is strange that with such exquisite examples of
colouring before them, the restorers of the church should have had the
bad taste to bedaub the arches of the aisles with ochre, and to
whitewash the pillars and vaults, marking the stonework with red lines.
We could well have spared, moreover, the elaborate plateresque work in
the choir, which, though good in itself, is dissonant from the general
character of the building; and the Churrigueresque retablo of the
Capilla Mayor, representing the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin. The
sanctuary and choir, which in so many churches are the most interesting
feature, are of quite secondary importance at Leon. The Capilla Mayor,
however, contains the remains of San Froilan in two silver reliquaries
of the Renaissance style, and the relics of two other bishops (Alvitas
and Pelagius) in plain marble urns. The choir stalls date from the
fifteenth century, and are well carved. The best work is seen in the
panels behind the stalls, the subjects being the generation of Christ,
the Visitation, the Revolt of Satan, and the Descent into Hell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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