At the north-eastern shoulder of the church, between it and the tower in
the city wall already mentioned, is the fine rectangular chapel of
Santiago, built in the time of the Catholic sovereigns--on the site, it
would seem, of a twelfth-century chapel. The pillars are borne on the
shoulders of various figures, among them being Samson, the Queen of
Sheba, Laocoon, and a monk with a book on which is the derisive motto
_legere et non intelligere_. The details of the architecture are
capricious and graceful. The chapel is lighted by colossal windows,
filled with gorgeous stained glass--blue and gold, purple and
emerald--the reflected colour producing a magical effect.
The spacious cloister, which conceals the northern façade of the
cathedral, was built in the early fourteenth century, but it has been
rebuilt, restored, and altered into what Street calls ‘a very poor and
weak kind of Renaissance.’ The ornamentation is profuse and not in bad
taste. The inner walls have not been much altered, and the pillars
supporting them are sculptured in the Gothic style. The bays are painted
with an extremely valuable and interesting series of frescoes, so well
drawn that they were more likely the work of some fifteenth-century
Italian artist than productions of native talent. The subjects are all
from the history of Christ and Mary, the Crucifixion curiously enough
being omitted. When Street saw these paintings forty years ago, he spoke
of the colours as pure and good, but they have now been almost entirely
obliterated by the damp. The cloister contains several sepulchral
monuments, some mere slabs, but one--that of the Canon Juan de Grajal
(1447)--elaborately and artistically sculptured. Some colossal idiot has
cut off the heads of the angels shown in this fine piece of work. Near
the beautiful Gothic entrance to the cloister is an image of our Lady of
Regla, to which at one time the people used to proceed in procession to
return thanks for the mythical victory of Clavijo, a choir of damsels
representing the equally mythical tribute of one hundred virgins said to
have been paid by Mauregato to the Moors.
In the archives of the cloister are preserved a fine collection of
codices and documents, throwing light on the history not only of Spain
but of the Catholic Church. Specially valuable is a Gothic Bible written
_sub umbraculo Santae Marie et Sancti Martini in monasterio vocabulo Alb
... in DCCCCLVIII._ [920 A.D.], by John the Deacon, who transcribed on
the intermediate pages the life of San Froilan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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