The Puerta del Sarmental gives access to the south transept. It has the
finest of the cathedral fronts. It is approached by a broad flight of
steps, flanked by the walls of the episcopal palace and cloisters, and
by some interesting fourteenth-century tombs of bishops. The
architecture of the portal is on the same plan as that of the Puerta
Alta. In the tympanum Christ is shown with the Evangelists and the
beasts symbolical of them; below are the seated figures of the twelve
Apostles. The three orders of the archivolt are adorned with angels and
with crowned figures playing various instruments. Above all this is a
magnificent rose-window filled with beautiful glass of the fourteenth
century. The third stage of the front shows three Gothic windows,
elaborately traceried, and each divided into four lights by mullions,
supported by large figures of angels. ‘The angles of the transepts,’
says Street, ‘are flanked by crocketed pinnacles, the crockets here, as
elsewhere throughout the early work, being simple in form and design,
but as perfect in effect as it is possible for crockets to be.’
The eastern front of the cathedral is formed by the Capilla del
Condestable and its adjoining chapels. The exterior of the famous
octagonal chapel mentioned is very fine. On the uppermost stage on one
of the sides two lions, standing upright, are seen supporting laurel
crowns--one containing the cross, the other the monogram of Christ. On a
lower stage the escutcheon of the Velascos and Mendozas is displayed
between two knights armed _cap-à-pie_. The stages are flanked by
effigies under canopies. The angles of the façade are surmounted by
elegant spires and pinnacles.
The plan of the cathedral--a Latin cross, with nave, aisles, and
transept--has been obscured by the chapels built on the north, south,
and east sides, as may be seen by a glance at the plan included among
the illustrations. The nave is of six bays, and fifty-eight metres long.
Though the view is spoilt, as in all Spanish churches, by the choir, it
remains picturesque, pure, and devotional in the highest degree. The dim
religious light of our northern churches, it is true, is lacking, for
the interior is white throughout, and the stained glass, which in
earlier times would have mellowed the strong sunlight, was unhappily
shattered during the war of Independence. The aisles are lower than the
nave, from which they are separated by twenty columns, each with eight
engaged shafts. The triforium is somewhat in the nature of an
architectural curiosity, and certainly has been altered since the
thirteenth century; it consists of wide bays of five or six lights each,
with trefoil and quatrefoil traceries above, enclosed within a
semicircular arch or ‘label,’ which is decorated with sculptured heads.
Street declares that he has seen nothing like this elsewhere, and
supposes it to be the work of a native artist. Above the triforium is
the original clerestory--‘Simple, but good and vigorous in style.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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