The High Altar, or Altar Mayor, occupying the centre of the apse, is
approached by a flight of steps of white, red, and black marble. It is
railed off from the ambulatory by _rejas_ or bronze screens fixed on
pedestals of jasper between the pillars of the nave; the backs of these
latter are adorned with life-size statues. Behind the altar rises the
Renaissance retablo, an elaborate and gorgeous work of walnut wood,
heavily gilded and each of its stages in a different order of
architecture. The symmetrical division of these altar-pieces into
compartments, each filled with its own statue, does not strike the
layman as artistic or pleasing. Indeed, there is something faintly
suggestive of pigeon-holes about it. Street, quoting Ponz, states that
the sculptures were the work of Rodrigo and Martin de la Aya (1577), who
were paid forty thousand ducats; and that for the painting and gilding
Juan de Urbino of Madrid and Martinez of Valladolid received, in 1573,
eleven thousand ducats. At the back of the sanctuary, between the
arches, may be seen the spirited reliefs of the celebrated Juan Vigarni
or ‘Borgoña,’ executed in 1540, and representing the Agony in the
Garden, Christ bearing the Cross, the Crucifixion, the Resurrection, and
the Ascension. The first and last are stated by Ford to have been
executed by one Alonso de los Rios in 1679. To the Renaissance period
also belong the handsome silver lamp and candlesticks. To an earlier age
belong the tombs on the north side of the sanctuary--two concealed by
the retablo; they contain the remains of Don Juan, the rebellious son of
Alfonso X., Don Sancho, brother of Enrique II. of Trastamara, and his
wife, Doña Beatriz. Over the altar is the copy of the banner borne
before Alfonso VIII. at the Navas de Tolosa, made by the De la Aya
brothers and others about 1570.
Over the crossing or intersection of nave and transept rises the
gorgeous lantern or octagonal dome, which Philip II. said seemed like
the work of angels rather than of men. It replaced the earlier dome
which collapsed in March 1537, and was completed in December 1567.
Felipe Vigarni (de Borgoña) and Juan de Vallejo are mentioned as the
architects. The Gothic and Renaissance styles are curiously but not
inharmoniously blended in this beautiful lantern, which rises to a
height of one hundred and seventy-three feet, and is profusely adorned
with sculpture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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