The south-west side of this grand cathedral is shut in by the
archbishop’s palace.
LAS HUELGAS
The other great ecclesiastical building of Burgos belongs nearly to the
same period as the cathedral. The Cistercian convent of Santa Maria la
Real de las Huelgas was founded in 1180 by Alfonso VIII. and his Queen
Eleanor, daughter of our Henry II.--to propitiate the Heavenly Powers
after the rout of Alarcos, it is asserted by some. The architect
appears to have been a countryman of his royal mistress--an Angevin--and
his work was certainly copied in those churches which were built by
Spaniards.
This historic pile stands about a mile from the city, on the road to
Valladolid. The name is derived from the verb _holgar_ (to rest), the
site having been formerly occupied by pleasure in grounds. Many of the
most striking events in Castilian history were enacted here. Here Edward
I. was knighted by Alfonso el Sabio; here, in after years, the Black
Prince lodged, fresh from his much-to-be-regretted victory at Navarrete.
Many royal personages were wedded here, and not a few were buried here
besides. Great was the dignity of the abbess, who exercised ‘the high,
the low, and the middle justice,’ or, in other words, could hang
offenders on her own gallows; whose authority extended over half a
hundred towns and villages, and who was exempt from all episcopal
jurisdiction or control. Though shorn of her proudest prerogatives and
much of her wealth, the abbess of Las Huelgas is still one of the
greatest ladies of Spain. The rule, too, of St. Bernard is observed with
primitive strictness, and the high-born nuns refuse to permit even the
most sober of archæologists to examine their cloisters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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