Not far from Las Huelgas is the Hospital del Key, built by Alfonso VIII.
as a hospice for pilgrims to Santiago de Compostela. There is little
about this building now to suggest a twelfth-century origin. Rebuilt in
the sixteenth century and restored by Carlos III., it has been styled
one of the finest specimens of the plateresque in Castile. The Puerta de
Romeros exhibits a bewildering wealth of ornament, against which stands
out, as the most interesting features, the vigorous figure of the
apostle, and the crowned busts of Alfonso and Eleanor. The court is
bordered on two sides by cloisters, the symmetry of which is marred by
the excess of arches. The cornice, with its heraldic achievement and
busts, is, on the whole, in good taste. One side of the court is formed
by the façade of the church, restored in the plateresque style by Carlos
III. in 1771. The original structure may be recognised in some
dilapidated and deserted chambers with Mudejar ceilings, adjacent to the
Magdalena arcade. There are some graceful Mudejar capitals and Arabic
inscriptions of the thirteenth century likewise to be seen in the
stables of the Hospice.
Far more interesting and substantially more ancient, though of a later
foundation, is the Cartuja de Miraflores in an arid spot some two and a
half miles from the city. Here once stood the hunting palace of Enrique
III.--placed like so many abodes of Spanish royalty in a naturally
uninviting site, and converted by that king’s son and successor, Juan
II., into a Carthusian monastery in 1442. In consequence of a fire, all
had to be rebuilt, a few years later, under the direction of Juan de
Colonia. The edifice was not actually completed till the time of Isabel
the Catholic. The monastery is now inhabited by only a few monks, each
having his own house or cell, according to the rule of St. Bruno. Grass
grows in the courtyard, and everything wears an aspect of desolation and
neglect. The church recalls San Juan de los Reyes at Toledo. It rises
high above the adjacent buildings, simple in plan and rather spoilt by
plateresque additions. The interior, consisting of a single nave and
apse, is divided by _rejas_ or grilles into three parts, reserved
respectively to the laity, the lay brothers, and the clergy. The two
last have their own choirs. The stalls of the lay brothers are
beautifully carved in walnut, and display the figures of the apostles.
They were carved in 1558 by Simon de Bueras for the sum of 810 ducats.
The priests’ stalls, also in walnut, show the fine workmanship of Martin
Sanchez (1489), a Spaniard whose style was very Flemish. The
quadrangular altar, designed by Gil de Siloe, was adorned with gold
brought from America in the second expedition of Columbus. The
altar-piece, by the same artist and Diego de la Cruz, is a triumph of
design and colouring. It is impossible to describe in detail the almost
innumerable subjects and sculptures which make up this marvellous work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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