And now the air gets daily clearer and drier; we are getting into the
Australian climate. At last the day comes for sighting land. For an
hour or more it is doubtful, then it is certain, that land is in sight.
I put the day down as a red-letter day in my life, as we pass within
a mile or two of Cape Otway, and see the red sandy cliffs, the pale
green grass close to the water’s edge, the lighthouse and telegraph
station above, and behind, the ranges of thick impenetrable bush, huge
forest trees, with their dark foliage standing out against the sky,
a landscape as wild and unsullied by the hand of man as though it
were a thousand miles from a settlement. One longs to be landed there
and then, but the breeze is fair and strong, and though at sunset we
take in all sail but topsails, we rush on, and are forced to heave-to
before midnight, pitching and rolling in the swell, lest we get beyond
Port Phillip Heads in the night. Soon after midnight all are astir,
for there is a rumour that the pilot is coming. A large star near the
horizon is to be seen. It moves, gets larger; it is not a star; the
moon’s rays fall upon something indistinct on the waves beneath it, and
shining white as silver a little schooner with a light at her mast-head
shoots under the stern. The pilot climbs on board. Three more hours’
pitching, and the long low Heads are left astern of us, and we are in
smooth water. As the Melbourne folk are sitting down to their Sunday’s
breakfast, and those in England are going to bed for their Saturday
night’s rest, our anchor drops in Hobson’s Bay, a mile or more from
the long, low, sandy coast. Fronting us is Sandridge, the port of
Melbourne; to the right, as far as the eye can see, dark green foliage,
broken by clusters of houses and bare spaces of sand; and to the left,
a marshy, sandy plain, bounded by the distant ranges, purple as the
hills of Gascony or the Campagna.
II.
MELBOURNE.
‘All I can see is my own, and all I can’t see is my son’s,’ was the
complacent remark, it is said, of John Batman, as he stood, some
thirty-two years ago, looking over a vast tract of country which he
thought he had bought as his own freehold from the aborigines for a
few blankets and tomahawks. That tract of country comprised the ground
whereon now stands Melbourne, nearly if not quite, the largest city in
the southern half of the globe; in importance, actual or prospective,
in the first rank of British cities.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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