Probably it is this absence of moisture in the ground, and consequently
in the air also, which makes distant objects in Victoria so
marvellously clear, and gives such peculiarly brilliant colour to the
landscape where the conformation of the ground admits of a distant
view. I never saw such brilliant colouring anywhere in Europe. It is
the one redeeming feature, without which the scenery, except in the
mountainous districts, would be tame and dreary enough. The country
is seldom undulating, as in Tasmania. The trees are generally small,
stunted, and diseased, except on the ranges; the plains are almost
destitute of any trees at all, and vegetation is scanty, except in
early spring-time. There is a great plain extending for nearly a
hundred miles westward of Geelong almost without a break, so flat and
(unlike the fen country in England) so destitute of trees or other
objects high enough to break the line of the horizon, that at the
height of a dozen feet from the ground you may any day see a hill—and
not a high hill either—full forty-five miles distant as the crow flies,
looking not dim and misty, but a clearly defined blue patch upon the
horizon.
To most people there is something intolerably desolate and repulsive
in such a plain. Even to those who are most fond of open country it
must be depressing under certain circumstances, notably during a
rainy fortnight in winter, or on a hot-wind day in summer. But there
is something indescribably grand and enjoyable in the continual
contemplation of so vast a landscape. When the sun is high it is an
expanse of turf, green in winter and brown in summer; but as the
afternoon advances, earth and sky become faintly purple, and crimson,
and golden; the colours deepen from half-hour to half-hour, till the
sun sinks into its bed of turf in a gorgeous blaze of splendour.
There are several shallow lakes upon the plain, some very large, and
most of them salt. Coming suddenly upon one of them one evening from
behind some little sand-hills which concealed it, the margin for some
hundred yards in width dry and coated with mud and brine, no human
being or habitation visible, and the full brilliance of the setting sun
lighting it up, the scene was (except for the absence of mountains in
the distance) singularly like the landscape in Holman Hunt’s picture
of the ‘Scape-Goat.’ It is a pity that this kind of scenery is spoiled
by cultivation. Cut up into little pieces, a plain loses its vastness,
while its monotony is increased.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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