Some people who have been to the Antipodes and back will tell you that
a voyage to Australia in a good sailing ship is a very pleasant way of
spending three months. Seen through the halo of distance it may seem
so; certainly it leaves pleasant and amusing reminiscences behind.
But I doubt if one person in twenty on board our excellent ship the
_Mercia_, provided as she was with every comfort, or on board any
other ship whatsoever, if cross-examined _during_ the voyage, would
have persisted that he was thoroughly enjoying it. From the first,
a resigned rather than a cheerful look is to be noticed among the
passengers. Even those who at starting were loudest in their praises of
a sea life spoke in the same breath of finding means, and slender means
they seemed, of relieving its tedium and monotony.
We left Plymouth in the fag end of a gale. The second day, just about
the place where the _London_ is supposed to have gone down, a large
piece of timber was floating high out of the water. We passed within
twenty yards of it, and I then saw it was the keel of a vessel, of
three or four hundred tons, capsized, and drifting bottom upwards.
There was still a good deal of swell, and it would have been dangerous
as well as useless to lower a boat; so we passed it almost in silence,
and in a few minutes it was out of sight astern.
For a week or so the cuddy and even the poop were almost deserted. By
degrees the population emerged from their cabins like rabbits from
their burrows, to the number of forty or more, so that there was
scarcely room to sit at table. Most of the passengers are Australians,
‘old chums,’ who have crossed the Line more than once, and are going
back, either because the east winds of the old country last too long
and are too keen after an Australian sun, or because they have come to
an end of their holiday. Even among second and third class passengers
this is so, for the attraction homewards is still strong, and it is
common enough, it seems, for clerks and persons holding mercantile
situations to get a year’s leave to go home. There are one or two
brides, and about a dozen others, not yet Australian, some of them
more or less invalids, taking the voyage for pure sea air’s sake, and
hoping by following the sun across the Line to enjoy three summers in
succession. Six children and a nurse abide in one stern-cabin; the
other has been fitted up luxuriously and artistically with cushions,
pictures, and loaded book-shelves, by a man who apparently intends
to pass the time in literary retirement in the bosom of his family.
Alas! in the stern there is motion on the calmest day. Not an hour
is it possible to write or read there without experiencing certain
premonitory symptoms necessitating an adjournment to the fresh air on
deck.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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