It is not easy to be alone or to be industrious at any time on board
ship. But it is not till you enter the tropics that exertion of body
or mind seems to become impossible. It is then that your limbs almost
refuse to move, your eyes to see, and your brains to think. The deck is
strewn all day with slumbering forms. No plank, no hen-coop redolent
of unpleasant odours, is so hard as to repel sleep. It is seldom that
a sail needs setting or taking in. Even the barometer almost refuses
to move, and influenced (it is said) only by the tide, sinks and rises
almost inappreciably with lazy regularity. Nor is there often any
excitement to arouse us. Twice only throughout the voyage is land seen:
the rough jagged outline of Madeira, and the Desertas, rising from a
smooth sheet of blue and purple water, and standing out against the
glowing colours of the setting sun; and a few days later Palma, hiding
the Peak of Teneriffe. We hope in vain to see, later on, Trinidad (the
southern, not the West Indian, Trinidad) and Tristan da Cunha. There
are two months in which the horizon is straight with a straightness
abhorred on land by nature, such as even the deserts of Africa do not
afford. Can it be that so much of the globe is always to be a dreary
waste of waters? Is it all needed to make wind and rain, and to be a
purifier of the land? Or when earth is overpeopled, will a new creation
spring out of the sea? At any rate, there is change of some kind going
on. We are unpleasantly made aware of this by a sudden cessation of
wind, with calms, squalls, and foul wind, off the Canaries, in what
should be the very heart of the trade-winds—the trades, whose blast
used to be as steady and uniform as the course of the sun itself. A
great change has occurred, says the captain ruefully, even in his time
(and he is not forty,) in their regularity. If they go on at this
rate, there may be none at all in a century, and not Maury himself can
foresee the consequences of that.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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