In the more populous towns of Spain, these unpleasant meetings are
frequent. Nor are you free from being disturbed by the holy bell
in the most retired part of your house. Its sound operates like
magic upon the Spaniards. In the midst of a gay, noisy party, the
word--“_Su Magestad_”--will bring every one upon his knees until
the tinkling dies in the distance. Are you at dinner?--you must
leave the table. In bed?--you must, at least, sit up. But the most
preposterous effect of this custom is to be seen at the theatres. On
the approach of the host to any military guard, the drum beats, the
men are drawn out, and as soon as the priest can be seen, they bend
the right knee, and invert the firelocks, placing the point of the
bayonet on the ground. As an officer’s guard is always stationed at
the door of a Spanish theatre, I have often laughed in my sleeve at
the effect of the _chamade_ both upon the actors and the company.
“_Dios, Dios!_” resounds from all parts of the house, and every
one falls that moment upon his knees. The actors’ ranting, or the
rattling of the castanets in the _fandango_, is hushed for a few
minutes, till the sound of the bell growing fainter and fainter, the
amusement is resumed, and the devout performers are once more upon
their legs, anxious to make amends for the interruption. So powerful
is the effect of early habit, that I had been for some weeks in
London before I could hear the postman’s bell in the evening, without
feeling instinctively inclined to perform a due genuflection.
Cadiz, though fast declining from the wealth and splendour to which
she had reached during her exclusive privilege to trade with the
Colonies of South America, is still one of the few towns of Spain,
which, for refinement, can be compared with some of the second rate
in England. The people are hospitable and cheerful. The women,
without being at all beautiful, are really fascinating. Some of the
_Tertulias_, or evening parties, which a simple introduction to the
lady of the house entitles any one to attend daily, are very lively
and agreeable. No stiffness of etiquette prevails: you may drop
in when you like, and leave the room when it suits you. The young
ladies, however, will soon either find out, or imagine, the house and
company to which you give the preference; and a week’s acquaintance
will lay you open to a great deal of good-natured bantering upon the
cause of your short calls. Singing to the guitar, or the piano, is a
very common resource at these meetings. But the musical acquirements
of the Spanish ladies cannot bear the most distant comparison with
those of the female amateurs in London. In singing, however, they
possess one great advantage--that of opening the mouth--which your
English _Misses_ seem to consider as a great breach of propriety.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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