The inhabitants of Cadiz, being confined to the rock on which their
city is built, have made the towns of Chiclana, Puerto Real, and
Port St. Mary’s, their places of resort, especially in the summer.
The passage, by water, to Port St. Mary’s, is, upon an average,
of about an hour and a half, and the intercourse between the two
places, nearly as constant as between a large city and its suburbs.
Boats full of passengers are incessantly crossing from daybreak
till sunset. This passage is not, however, without danger in case
of a strong wind from the east, in summer, or of rough weather, in
winter. At the mouth of the Guadalete, a river that runs into the bay
of Cadiz, by Port St. Mary’s, there are extensive banks of shifting
sands, which every year prove fatal to many. The passage-boats are
often excessively crowded with people of all descriptions. The
Spaniards, however, are not so shy of strangers as I have generally
found your countrymen. Place any two of them, male or female, by the
merest chance, together, and they will immediately enter into some
conversation. The absolute disregard to a stranger, which custom
has established in England, would be taken for an insult in any part
of Spain; consequently little gravity is preserved in these aquatic
excursions.
In fine weather, when the female part of the company are not troubled
with fear or sickness, the passengers indulge in a boisterous sort
of mirth, which is congenial to Andalusians of all classes. It is
known by the old Spanish word _Arana_, pronounced with the Southern
aspirate, as if written _Haranna_. I do not know whether I shall be
able to convey a notion of this kind of amusement. It admits of no
liberties of action, while every allowance is made for words which do
not amount to gross indecency. It is--if I may use the expression--a
conversational _row_; or, to indulge a more strange assemblage of
ideas, the _Arana_ is to conversation, what romping is to walking arm
in arm. In the midst, however, of hoarse laugh and loud shouting,
as soon as the boat reaches the shoals, the steersman, raising his
voice with a gravity becoming a parish-clerk, addresses himself to
the company in words amounting to these--“Let us pray for the souls
of all that have perished in this place.” The pious address of the
boatman has a striking effect upon the company: for one or two
minutes every one mutters a private prayer, whilst a sailor-boy goes
round collecting a few copper coins from the passengers, which are
religiously spent in procuring masses for the souls in purgatory.
This ceremony being over, the riot is resumed with unabated spirit,
till the very point of landing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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