Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
_Rathfelder’s Halfway House_, 6_th_ _November_.—I drove out here
yesterday in Captain T—’s drag, which he kindly brought into Capetown for
me. He and his wife and children came for a change of air for whooping
cough, and advised me to come too, as my cough continues, though less
troublesome. It is a lovely spot, six miles from Constantia, ten from
Capetown, and twelve from Simon’s Bay. I intend to stay here a little
while, and then to go to Kalk Bay, six miles from hence. This inn was
excellent, I hear, ‘in the old Dutch times’. Now it is kept by a young
Englishman, Cape-born, and his wife, and is dirty and disorderly. I pay
twelve shillings a day for S— and self, without a sitting-room, and my
bed is a straw paillasse; but the food is plentiful, and not very bad.
That is the cheapest rate of living possible here, and every trifle costs
double what it would in England, except wine, which is very fair at
fivepence a bottle—a kind of hock. The landlord pays £1 a day rent for
this house, which is the great resort of the Capetown people for Sundays,
and for change of air, &c.—a rude kind of Richmond. His cook gets £3
10_s._ a month, besides food for himself and wife, and beer and sugar.
The two (white) housemaids get £1 15_s._ and £1 10_s._ respectively
(everything by the month). Fresh butter is 3_s._ 6_d._ a pound, mutton
7_d._; washing very dear; cabbages my host sells at 3_d._ a piece, and
pumpkins 8_d._ He has a fine garden, and pays a gardener 3_s._ 6_d._ a
day, and black labourers 2_s._ _They_ work three days a week; then they
buy rice and a coarse fish, and lie in the sun till it is eaten; while
their darling little fat black babies play in the dust, and their black
wives make battues in the covers in their woolly heads. But the little
black girl who cleans my room is far the best servant, and smiles and
speaks like Lalage herself, ugly as the poor drudge is. The voice and
smile of the negroes here is bewitching, though they are hideous; and
neither S— nor I have yet heard a black child cry, or seen one naughty or
quarrelsome. You would want to lay out a fortune in woolly babies.
Yesterday I had a dreadful heartache after my darling, on her little
birthday, and even the lovely ranges of distant mountains, coloured like
opals in the sunset, did not delight me. This is a dreary place for
strangers. Abdul Jemaalee’s tisanne, and a banana which he gave me each
time I went to his shop, are the sole offer of ‘Won’t you take
something?’ or even the sole attempt at a civility that I have received,
except from the J—s, who, are very civil and kind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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