Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
One unpleasant sight here is the skeletons of horses and oxen along the
roadside; or at times a fresh carcase surrounded by a convocation of huge
serious-looking carrion crows, with neat white neck-cloths. The
skeletons look like wrecks, and make you feel very lonely on the wide
veld. In this district, and in most, I believe, the roads are mere
tracks over the hard, level earth, and very good they are. When one gets
rutty, you drive parallel to it, till the bush is worn out and a new
track is formed.
_January_ 17_th_.—Lovely weather all the week. Summer well set in.
LETTER VI
CALEDON
Caledon, January 19th.
DEAREST MOTHER,
Till this last week, the weather was pertinaciously cold and windy; and I
had resolved to go to Worcester, which lies in a ‘Kessel’, and is really
hot. But now the glorious African summer is come, and I believe this is
the weather of Paradise. I got up at four this morning, when the
Dutchmen who had slept here were starting in their carts and waggons. It
was quite light; but the moon shone brilliantly still, and had put on a
bright rose-coloured veil, borrowed from the rising sun on the opposite
horizon. The freshness (without a shadow of cold or damp) of the air was
indescribable—no dew was on the ground. I went up the hill-side, along
the ‘Sloot’ (channel, which supplies all our water), into the ‘Kloof’
between the mountains, and clambered up to the ‘Venster Klip’, from which
natural window the view is very fine. The flowers are all gone and the
grass all dead. Rhenoster boschjes and Hottentot fig are green
everywhere, and among the rocks all manner of shrubs, and far too much
‘Wacht een beetje’ (_Wait a bit_), a sort of series of natural
fish-hooks, which try the robustest patience. Between seven and eight,
the sun gets rather hot, and I came in and _tubbed_, and sat on the stoep
(a sort of terrace, in front of every house in South Africa). I
breakfast at nine, sit on the stoep again till the sun comes round, and
then retreat behind closed shutters from the stinging sun. The _air_ is
fresh and light all day, though the sun is tremendous; but one has no
languid feeling or desire to lie about, unless one is sleepy. We dine at
two or half-past, and at four or five the heat is over, and one puts on a
shawl to go out in the afternoon breeze. The nights are cool, so as
always to want one blanket. I still have a cough; but it is getting
better, so that I can always eat and walk. Mine host has just bought a
horse, which he is going to try with a petticoat to-day, and if he goes
well I shall ride.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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