Cape of Good Hope (South Africa) -- Description and travel
Well, to go back to Gnadenthal. I wandered all over the village on
Sunday afternoon, and peeped into the cottages. All were neat and clean,
with good dressers of crockery, the _very_ poorest, like the worst in
Weybridge sandpits; but they had no glass windows, only a wooden shutter,
and no doors; a calico curtain, or a sort of hurdle supplying its place.
The people nodded and said ‘Good day!’ but took no further notice of me,
except the poor old Hottentot, who was seated on a doorstep. He rose and
hobbled up to meet me and take my hand again. He seemed to enjoy being
helped along and seated down carefully, and shook and patted my hand
repeatedly when I took leave of him. At this the people stared a good
deal, and one woman came to talk to me.
In the evening I sat on a bench in the square, and saw the people go in
to ‘Abendsegen’. The church was lighted, and as I sat there and heard
the lovely singing, I thought it was impossible to conceive a more
romantic scene. On Monday I saw all the schools, and then looked at the
great strong Caffre lads playing in the square. One of them stood to be
pelted by five or six others, and as the stones came, he twisted and
turned and jumped, and was hardly ever hit, and when he was, he didn’t
care, though the others hurled like catapults. It was the most wonderful
display of activity and grace, and quite incredible that such a huge
fellow should be so quick and light. When I found how comfortable dear
old Mrs. Rietz made me, I was sorry I had hired the cart and kept it to
take me home, for I would gladly have stayed longer, and the heat did me
no harm; but I did not like to throw away a pound or two, and drove back
that evening. Mrs. Rietz, told me her mother was a Mozambiquer. ‘And
your father?’ said I. ‘Oh, I don’t know. _My mother was only a slave_.’
She, too, was a slave, but said she ‘never knew it’, her ‘missus’ was so
good; a Dutch lady, at a farm I had passed, on the road, who had a
hundred and fifty slaves. I liked my Hottentot hut amazingly, and the
sweet brown bread, and the dinner cooked so cleanly on the bricks in the
kitchen. The walls were whitewashed and adorned with wreaths of
everlasting flowers and some quaint old prints from Loutherburg—pastoral
subjects, not exactly edifying.
Well, I have prosed unconscionably, so adieu for the present.
_February_ 3_d_.—Many happy returns of your birthday, dear —. I had a
bottle of champagne to drink your health, and partly to swell the bill,
which these good people make so moderate, that I am half ashamed. I get
everything that Caledon can furnish for myself and S— for 15_l._ a month.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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