Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
We started later than usual, as W. had to close accounts with the "heavy
column" and send a telegram to Alexandria to warn them of our impending
return. There was a heavy dew. I made a sunrise sketch of the town. A
glorious ride we had to Carmel, steeped in the poetry of the Old
Testament. Carmel is one mass of oak-trees. There we met the vast host
of the French pilgrims coming from Caïfa and beginning their experiences
of Palestine. We met amicably at the shady halting-place and exchanged a
few words of _camaraderie_, and we watched them depart towards Nazareth,
each company headed by a banner. On our way to Caïfa we crossed the
Kishon again, now near its mouth, flowing through a lovely plain,
bordered, near the sandhills that skirt the sea, with date-palms. Over
the hills to our right towered Lebanon against the blue. As we came in
sight of the bay the town of St. Jean d'Acre looked beautiful on the
opposite side, and Caïfa appeared a bright little town at the foot of
Carmel. There we put up at the German inn, and I parted with my dear
little horse "Shiloh," and W. with his nimble "Kishon," our good little
steeds that brought us so well through the Holy Land.
_Sunday, 26th April._
A great rest and much letter-writing. The congregation at Mass was
large, for there is a considerable Christian colony here. We shall make
this our headquarters till Friday, when we must leave for Egypt.
CAÏFA, _Monday, 27th April 189-_.
My....--We had a very enjoyable expedition to Acre, driving the whole
way there and back _in the sea_. Where the waves break the sand is hard,
whereas higher up the beach no wheeled vehicle could get through in the
soft sand. We were often covered with spray, and the lean horses
splashed along knee-deep in the surf. At the ferry across the Kishon,
where it flows into the sea, our horses were unharnessed and swam
alongside our punt, together with a string of camels that looked very
comical swimming. The shivering horses were reharnessed on the farther
shore, and away we went tearing through the waves. The poor beasts
seemed to enjoy their oats at the end, if enjoyment is possible to such
wretched, ill-treated creatures. I made a sketch as well as I could with
the sun in my eyes from our shandrydan, about a quarter of a mile
outside the one gate of Acre, on the white sandy strand, whilst W. went
exploring all over the town. The military authorities molested us not at
all, and the commandant only asked W. for backsheesh, although I was
conspicuously sketching the fortifications and W. was scanning
everything in a place so saturated with Napoleonic reminiscences. The
same amphibious drive in the gloaming back to Caïfa.
_Tuesday, 28th April 189-._
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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