Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
To-day we drove to remote Athlit, a long way down the coast to the
south, and spent quiet hours amid the Gothic Crusader ruins on the
wave-lashed rocks beyond Carmel. Acre and Athlit steep one's mind in
Crusader sentiment, which feels almost modern after so long a sojourn in
the regions of the Bible. The majestic fragments of Northern Gothic we
saw to-day seem strange to the eye in this Oriental land, but to the
intellect they are full of touching meaning, for this was the point of
departure for most of the Crusaders. Baffled, haggard, heart-broken,
they took ship again from here.
Wednesday we spent in visiting the Carmelite Monastery, a perfect place
to stay at instead of the rather dubious German inn. It is a
fortress-like building commanding a sweeping view of the sea, south and
west and north, and of the grand landscape eastward and south again. The
whitewashed rooms are filled with the reflection from the light off the
water and the land. The Abbot and monks, in the well-known white cloak
and brown habit, are, as everywhere, kindly and hospitable, and glad to
see you. What a place for study and for painting; what a place for a
Retreat, where everything reminds you of Religion and not one single
mundane, worrying, or ugly object comes within your ken! By "ugly" I
always mean some modern eyesore; it is not a word applicable to the poor
and the diseased who humbly mount the steep path for the daily alms and
food the monastery has ready for them.
[Illustration: ST. JEAN D'ACRE
THE roadstead is seen to the left. A sandy shore. City surrounded by
walls and fortifications.]
Somewhere amongst this series of oak-clad hills that forms Mount
Carmel, Elijah built his altar to the True God, whereon the
burnt-offering was consumed by fire from heaven in sight of the prophets
of Baal. "Then the fire of the Lord fell, and consumed the holocaust,
and the wood, and the stones, and the dust, and licked up the water that
was in the trench," III Kings xviii. 38. This was the scene of that
mighty episode which is one of the most salient and impressive in one's
memory of the Old Testament, and look! down below rushes that same
Kishon on whose banks Elijah, after the great drama on the mountain,
slew the prophets of Baal in sight of all the children of Israel. A
thrill runs through one when recalling such scenes as one stands on the
very spot where they took place.
After seeing specimens of the ancient tombs in this country one can
fully understand the words of St. Luke and St. John alluding to the new
sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea "wherein no man had yet been laid."
These tombs contain triple receptacles for the dead, as I showed you in
the sketch plan at Jerusalem, and some I believe have more than three.
Had the sepulchre at the foot of Calvary contained but one, the words of
the Evangelists would be puzzling. This is an instance of the
illumination that dispels certain obscurities in one's mind as one
journeys across the theatre of Bible history.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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