Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
I continue to be haunted by the feeling that the sight of the Holy
Places is too easily and too unceremoniously obtained nowadays. I hope
we do not feel less devoutly with regard to them than in the "Ages of
Faith," and that it is only our modern way to take these things as we
do. Do you remember how history tells us that Richard Coeur de Lion,
after his defeat by the Saracens some distance short of Jerusalem,
falling back towards the coast, baffled in his heroic efforts to redeem
the Holy Sepulchre from the Infidel, refused to look on the city which
came in sight in the rear of his line of march as he and his knights
crested a high hill near Emmaus? He would not look; he had failed; his
eyes were too unworthy to rest upon the City of the Lord. And to-day,
with the Infidel still in possession, the Christian tourist, nothing
doubting, takes a good look through his binocular on sighting the same
Jerusalem. I remember hearing that as some friends of ours, forming part
of a mixed company,
[Illustration: RUINS OF THE CRUSADERS' BANQUETING HALL, ATHLEET
The springs of the Gothic arches can be traced on the high brick wall.
The hills to the right form the lower western slopes of Mount Carmel,
covered with oak woods.]
came in sight of the city, one of their number dropped on his knees in
as unobtrusive a manner as was possible under the circumstances. "I did
not know your brother was a _fanatic_," whispered an American to his
sister.
As regards certain details of life in this country that so much
embarrass and disappoint some travellers, do not imagine that I
affectedly ignore their existence; but I do feel grateful that in my
view of the whole scene they have everywhere kept their proper place. I
know how disappointed some people are on their account, and I should be
sorry if I was thought intolerant in my self-satisfaction at being so
fortunate.
One lady, in a little book I once read, describing her journey, takes
for her text: "He is not here, but is risen." In bitter chagrin she
acknowledges the fact that nowhere in Jerusalem could she see Our Lord
through her surroundings. I asked a friend once if she would like to see
the Holy Land: "Certainly not!" she exclaimed; "I have read Mark Twain's
book." I inquired of an English traveller at Jaffa the other day, who
was on his way home, how the Holy Places had impressed him. His answers
were dispirited: the dirt, the flies, etc., etc., had annoyed him. His
ears were still ringing with the ubiquitous "Baksheesh!"; the lepers had
spoilt some of the best views--and so on. How much better it would have
been for him not to come here, like the Mark Twain lady, and to have
preserved his Oxford impressions of the Bible uncontaminated!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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