Letters from the Holy LandButler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Religion
Letters from the Holy Land
Butler, Elizabeth (Elizabeth Southerden Thompson)
Palestine -- Description and travel
In Our Lord's time, although the cities were splendid, the poor and the
diseased were just as much _en évidence_ as now, and where He was His
poor clustered thickest. Yet who thinks of the merely squalid details of
those crowds when reading the Gospel narrative? Why, then, dwell on them
so much here to-day as we follow His footsteps on the very soil He trod?
I must say any danger of distractions I may have felt has not come from
what I have seen of the _native_ element here. Not long ago a party of
Christian (?) European trippers (I will not define their nationality)
reaching the Jews' Wailing Place at Jerusalem, charged with their
donkeys all along the line of those preoccupied figures standing praying
with their faces buried in their Testaments or pressed against the
stones of the great wall, and knocked them over.
But "Many men many minds," and as no country stirs the sincere heart as
this one does, one must accept each thoughtful traveller's account of
his experiences as being genuinely felt.
I would warn intending tourists who are earnest and sensitive about this
sacred land against forming large parties for the journey. Amongst the
group of fellow-travellers there is sure to be at least one discordant
unit. Facetious remarks, ignorant questions, thoughtless exclamations,
are harder to bear here than elsewhere. Of course, if the party forms a
religious pilgrimage these warnings do not apply; but even a pilgrimage
in company has drawbacks, if the time is limited, and many inevitable
distractions. Select as few companions as is practicable--one only, if
possible, entirely one with you in faith and feeling. Also, any one in
delicate health should not attempt the entire journey. I have seen more
than one sad procession of returning tourists escorting a litter
containing some poor collapsed lady, depending on the fore-and-aft mules
that carried her for a smooth transit back to Jerusalem and the carriage
road. Woe betide her if either of the beasts came down or even
stumbled!
When I wrote to you from Jerusalem I told you how convincing one feels
the traditional sites of Calvary and the Holy Sepulchre to be in spite
of modern scepticism. But more modern still is the verification of their
authenticity. It has lately been proved, by that "research" which we
seem to require nowadays, that they stand _outside_ the line of the city
walls of our Lord's time. The great stumbling-block to those who could
not accept the word of Tradition consisted in the idea that those sites
had always been within the city as now, for it is known that the Jewish
law forbade places of execution and of burial within the walls. To show
you how the shape of Jerusalem, marked out by its fortifications, has
changed during its long history, I may mention that, whereas the house
of the Last Supper stood within the lines in Our Lord's time, it stands
far outside the walls of to-day.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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