Letters written in France, to a friend in London, between the month of November 1794, and the month of May 1795Tench, Watkin
History
Letters written in France, to a friend in London, between the month of November 1794, and the month of May 1795
Tench, Watkin
France -- History -- Revolution, 1789-1799 -- Personal narratives, British; Tench, Watkin, 1759?-1833 -- Correspondence
The little vessel which conveyed us hither was extremely inconvenient,
and ill-fitted for the purpose; but her commander, Monsieur Conseil, and
his officers, treated us with great civility and regard. She had been a
Jersey privateer, and retains her English name, the Betsy. About noon,
on the day before yesterday, we anchored just within the mouth of the
river that leads to Quimper, within twenty yards of the shore. After so
long a residence on ship-board, amidst men of coarse and ferocious
manners, I could not withdraw my eyes from the scene before me. It was a
clear frosty day, but the deep snow of the winter had been melted by
intervening thaws, and the fields bore that fresh and verdant hue, which
is so re-animating to the human heart. The river was of a moderate
breadth, and on each side stood a parish-church, surrounded by a few
scattering houses. Notwithstanding the keenness of the weather, the
peasantry were dancing in circles in the open air. The small space which
I could see bore no trace of distress or devastation; and so transported
was I with the appearance of all around me, heightened by a recollection
of the past, that I was almost ready, with the shipwrecked philosopher
of antiquity, to cry out to my companions, “Courage, my friends! from
these marks I know we are thrown among civilized beings!”
Our commander, who was of a pleasant unsuspicious temper, begged that
the Admiral would defer going up to Quimper until the next morning; and
offered, if we pleased, to accompany us on shore after dinner for a
walk. This was a welcome invitation, and eagerly embraced. About two
o’clock we landed with our conductor, and set out for a large handsome
looking house, the _château_ of the Marquis de Kersalaun, about a mile
off, which we had seen in the morning, in running along-shore, before we
entered the river. We passed through thick woods, and when we reached
the _château_ found there an engineer, who is stationed on the coast,
in the service of the republic, and is a friend of the Marquis. This
gentleman is permitted to reside here, and also two of the Marquis’s old
female servants. He received us very politely, and led us up large stone
staircases, through various apartments lined with old tapestry, and half
illumined “by rich windows, which almost exclude the light.” He shewed
us also a small chapel within the house, which, though commonly kept
shut up, bears marks of the fury of the times. The _château_ is long and
low, with a turret, which resembles a pigeon-house, on its centre, and
has a fine old avenue leading up to it from the sea-side. Before we left
the house, the gentleman presented to us some excellent cyder, and
lamented, with evident signs of mortification, that he possessed not a
drop of either wine or brandy. From the house he took us into two large
walled gardens, forming oblong squares. In the disposition of these, and
the other grounds surrounding the house, no mark of taste appears, but
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