The lichenologist may claim several advantages in the study of his subject: the abundant material almost everywhere to hand in country districts, the ease with which the plants are preserved, and, not least, the interest excited by the changes and variations induced by growth conditions; there are a whole series of problems and puzzles barely touched on as yet that are waiting to be solved. In field work, it is important to note accurately and carefully the nature of the substratum as well as the locality. Crustaceous species should be gathered if possible along with part of the wood or rock to which they are attached; if they are scraped off, the pieces may be reassembled on gummed paper, but that is less satisfactory. The larger forms are more easily secured; they should be damped and then pressed before being laid away: the process flattens them, but it saves them from the risk of being crushed and broken, as when dry they are somewhat brittle. Moistening with water will largely restore their original form. All parts of the lichen, both thallus and fruit, can be examined with ease at any time as they do not sensibly alter in the herbarium, though they lose to some extent their colouring: the blue-grey forms, for instance, often become a uniform dingy brownish-grey. Microscopic examination in the determination of species is necessary in many instances, but that disability—if it ranks as such—is shared by other cryptogams, and may possibly be considered an inducement rather than a deterrent to the study of lichens. For temporary examination of microscopic preparations, the normal condition is best observed by mounting them in water. If the plants are old and dry, the addition of a drop or two of potash—or ammonia—solution is often helpful in clearing the membranes of the cells and in restoring the shrivelled spores and paraphyses to their natural forms and dimensions. If serial microtome sections are desired, more elaborate methods are required. For this purpose Peirce[21] has recommended that “when dealing with plants that are dry but still alive, the material should be thoroughly wetted and kept moist for two days, then killed and fixed in a saturated solution of corrosive sublimate in thirty-five per cent. alcohol.” The solution should be used hot: the usual methods of dehydrating and embedding in paraffin are then employed with extra precautions on account of the extremely brittle nature of lichens. Another method that also gave good results has been proposed by French[22]: “first the lichen is put into 95 per cent. alcohol for 24 hours, then into thin celloidin and thick celloidin 24 hours each. After this the specimens are embedded in thick celloidin which is hardened in 70 per cent. alcohol for 24 hours and then cut.” French advises staining with borax carmine: it colours the fungal part pale carmine and the algal cells a greenish-red shade.