Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
They impressed me very unpleasantly, and that in spite of all the
laughter and merriment, the exaltation of British power and British
supremacy in India. I had, somehow, a feeling of reserved force
pervading those mute, motionless figures around us, and I involuntarily
felt, for the first time, that it was a very solemn affair for the
Briton to be in India luxuriating on her soil and on her spoils.
With those dark, restless eyes watching every turn, motion, and
expression of our faces, in vain were the delicious coffee and the
sumptuous dinner, the music of the fountains playing before each window.
I was anxious to escape. If I laughed or talked or moved, those dark
eyes seemed to observe me, even when they were seemingly fixed on
vacancy. If I had dared, I believe I should have risen and gone away.
But of course this would have been a shocking breach of etiquette, so I
sat still, hushing secret perturbations and longing for dinner to end.
The conversation continued in a lively strain. I noticed that every one
seemed to have a pet theory about home government and how it could best
be administered; all of which I was then too young to comprehend, but I
did comprehend, and that very painfully, that no one seemed to mind
those dark, silent, stationary figures any more than if they had been
hewn out of stone. On coming out of that house I drew a long deep sigh
of relief and felt just as if I had escaped from some imminent danger.
There are no less than three government residences in the island of
Bombay. One is within the walls of the fort, used for holding special
meetings of the council durbars, or assemblies, and for various other
public business. It has little or no architectural beauty, and looks
more like a stadthouse in a German free city. The one at Malabar Point
is a charming English cottage, situated on a rocky and well-wooded
promontory, commanding a beautiful view of the sea, and is often washed
by the sea-spray during stormy weather. The third is at Parel--a
magnificent building, said to have been founded on the remains of an old
Jesuit college which flourished here during the Portuguese supremacy in
India. It was bought by a Parsee, from whom it was purchased by the East
India government about a century ago and fitted up in its present style.
A noble flight of stone steps leads to the entrance-hall, whence a fine
staircase opens into two of the most spacious rooms I have ever seen in
Bombay, about eighty feet long, one above the other, and each very
handsomely furnished. It commands a fine view of the town and harbor.
There is a curious rock at the extreme point of Malabar Hill which is
very difficult to approach at high tide. Here are the remains of an
ancient Hindoo temple, and a hole famous as a place of resort for Hindoo
devotees, who endure great hardships in order to get access to the hole
and pass through it, believing that in doing so they are regenerated,
born again, and purified from all their sins.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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