Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Vol. 26, November, 1880Various
History
Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Vol. 26, November, 1880
Various
Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- Periodicals
After his morning stroll our visitor to Limoges will doubtless
breakfast well. At either the Boule d'Or, the Richelieu or La Paix
he cannot fail to do so, provided he furnish the appetite. There are
other hotels, some of them rejoicing in such fanciful names as "The
Golden Chariot" or "The Silver Eagle," but the three first named are
those that the arriving stranger generally hears screamed in his
ears by the runners at the railway-dépôt. The prices at either of
them, varying from a dollar and a half to two dollars per day, seem
ridiculously cheap to an American, for the bill of fare embraces an
elaborate array of courses at the table-d'hôte, and wine is included.
Carriage-hire, too; is remarkably reasonable: for a five-franc piece
one can hire for the best part of the afternoon either a one-horse
coupé or a two-horse barouche with a liveried driver. Tell the coachman
to drive you out of town anywhere to get a good view of the city. He
will touch his hat, crack his whip, and away you go. He will probably
take you past the statue of Marshal Jourdan, the Cercle de l'Union--a
splendidly-appointed private club--and so down through the Cité to the
Boulevard Pont Neuf, leading to the bridge of the same name. The view
up and down the river as you cross is extremely picturesque, the banks
ascending in steep declivities on either side. Above is the ancient
bridge of St. Étienne, and below is the equally ancient bridge of St.
Martial, each, like the Pont Neuf, leading to its faubourg beyond
the river. Under the shade of the shapely poplars lining the placid
current hundreds of laundresses are to be seen kneeling in little
wooden boxes at the water's edge, each having before her a smooth flat
stone on which she scrubs, kneads and pounds somebody's family linen.
The roadway up through the faubourg is dirty and tedious: unkempt
children are playing in the street and ill-bred dogs run out to bark as
you pass. But beyond are the loveliest of rural scenes--long, shaded
road-ways where, through the closely-aligned trees, one looks down upon
the city and the river spread like a picture beneath: here and there,
standing back from the roadside and embowered in foliage, are ancestral
châteaux, seeming to care very little for the common world about them.
The farms are models of agricultural industry and neatness. Prosperity
and thrift are written in large letters all over the cultivated fields
and well-cared-for pastures that meet the eye at every turn. Men and
women are working together among the grain or in the hay-meadows. A
turn in the road brings us to Panazol, a little hamlet with not over
twenty houses, yet with a vine-clad toy of a church, and a little shed,
New England like, adjoining it, for the convenience of the farmers
who come here to mass on Sundays. Before the doors peasant-women sit
working at their looms, and bright-faced matrons sit knitting in the
windows. The village streets are grass-grown and still, and but for
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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