Ruskin himself, while preserving and polishing _The Stones of Venice_,
was very fond of an old-fashioned modest little inn, called La Calcina,
in the Zattere Quarter, on the corner of the Campiello della Calcina and
by the bridge of the same name. Ruskin’s rooms were over the portico,
looking out on the Giudecca Canal, and in fair weather he breakfasted
and dined under the shadow of a pergola of vines in the very small
garden in the rear of the house.
On the Zattere side of this hostelry, over a little gateway in a passage
leading to the garden, is a tablet stating that here died the celebrated
poet Apostolo Zeno, in 1750. He was born in Venice, eighty-two years
before. He came of an old Venetian family, distinguished in the world of
letters. He was a poet, “and the reformer and renovator” of the
melodrama in Italy, and he wrote works of a serious as well as of a
romantic character. His fine library is now a portion of the Library of
St. Mark.
During another visit to Venice Ruskin lived in the house of Rawdon Brown
(q. v.); and after Mr. Brown’s death he lodged at the Hotel Europa. All
this information was gathered from his personal guide, who described him
as “a very curious man, who looked at things with his eyes shut,”
imitating, as he spoke, that half-closed-eyelid gaze of a near-sighted
person so familiar to all normally visioned observers.
In what is now called the Casa Brown, a stone’s-throw from the Calcina
Inn, and in the home of his warm friend and literary executor Mr.
Horatio F. Brown, lived and worked, while in Venice, John Addington
Symonds, and herefrom he went, in the spring of 1893, to Rome to die.
Symonds’s apartments were on the lower floor of the house, which stands
on the Bridge and Campiello Incurabili, of the Zattere. In the upper
story were written Mr. Brown’s _Venetian Studies_, _Life on the
Lagoons_, _The Venetian Printing Press_, etc.
Rawdon Brown lived and died in the Casa della Vida; S. Marcuolo--the
address is taken from one of his own visiting-cards. He occupied the
second and third floors of this house, which fronts upon the Grand
Canal, nearly opposite the Church of S. Eustachio; and many of his
contemporary Men of Letters, besides Ruskin, were here his guests. He
bequeathed his apartments and their contents to two faithful old
servants.
Mr. Brown was buried, in August, 1883, in the Protestant portion of the
Cemetery of S. Michele.
Not far from Brown, in the same grounds, lies Eugene Schuyler,
“Statesman, Diplomatist, Traveller, Geographer, Historian, Essayist,”
who died at the Grand Hotel in Venice in 1890.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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