G. P. R. James, who died in Venice in 1860, was buried in this same
Protestant Cemetery. The tablet over his grave, blackened by time,
broken and hardly decipherable, contains the following epitaph, said to
have been the composition of Landor: “His merits as a writer are known
wherever the English language is, and as a man they rest on the heads of
many. A few friends have erected this humble and perishable monument.”
There is a vague tradition among the older alien residents here that
James was not buried at S. Michele at all, but on the Lido, where are a
few very ancient stones and monuments marking the graves of foreign
visitors to Venice. They are in a state of picturesque and utter
dilapidation, moss-covered, broken, and generally undecipherable; and
none of them seem to be of later date than the middle of the Eighteenth
Century. They are within the ramparts of Forte S. Nicolò, near the
powder-magazine, and are only seen by the consent of the military
authorities, which is obtained with difficulty. It is said that Byron
expressed a wish to leave his bones here, if his soul should be demanded
of him in Italy.
Sir Henry Layard lodged at the Hotel di Roma in 1867, when began his
connection with the glass-works of Murano.
He did not purchase the Palazzo Cappello, on the Grand Canal, corner of
the Rio S. Polo, until 1878. Here he received and entertained nearly all
the distinguished visitors to Venice, until the time of his death,
which occurred in London in 1894.
Mr. Howells, upon his first arrival in Venice, lodged, for a time, in
the house of his predecessor as American Consul, in a little street
behind the Square of St. Mark. Then he removed to the Campo S.
Bartolommeo, on the Rialto side of the square, and later he lived in the
Campo S. Stefano before he began house-keeping in the Casa Falier, a
queer little mansion on the right-hand side of the Grand Canal, three
doors from the infamous Iron Bridge. The Casa Falier has cage-like,
over-hanging windows, one of them figuring as “The Balcony on the Grand
Canal,” from which he saw, and set down, “sights more gracious and fairy
than poets ever dreamed.”
His latest house here, in 1864-5, was in the Palazzo Giustiniani dei
Vescovi, on the other side of the thoroughfare. It is the middle of
three Gothic palaces on the Grand Canal which look towards the Rialto,
are next to the Palazzo Foscari, and which, as some one has expressed
it, are now a
[Illustration: CASA FALIER, WHERE MR. HOWELLS LIVED]
mosaic-mill. Here he received and put upon record the impressions of his
_Venetian Life_, which have given so much pleasure to so many readers,
in Venice and out of it, and which have told us so many things we want
to know about Venice and the Venetians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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