Mr. Charles Dudley Warner, during one long and happy summer in Venice,
wrote the story of his _Winter on the Nile_. He lived in the Barbaro
Palace, on the Grand Canal, not far from the Falier house of Mr.
Howells, on the same side of the stream, but on the other side of the
Iron Bridge, and nearly opposite the modern-mosaic-frescoed ancient
establishment of Murano-work, which Mr. Howells occupied later. Over the
front door of Mr. Warner’s house is a great carved head of some ancient
worthy, perhaps a Barbaro, perhaps a saint or a god, whose rank or title
is to-day unknown. Mr. Warner’s writing was done in a little room with a
balconied window, on the top floor of the neighboring Palazzo Fosclo.
Of the other later-day historians of Venice, it may be stated that Dr.
Robertson, the annalist of Sarpi and of St. Mark’s, lives in the Casa
S. Leonardo, on the Rio S. Maria della Salute, and by the side of the
church of that name; that Mr. Augustus J. C. Hare took most of his
_Walks in Venice_ from the Hotel Milano, fronting on the Grand Canal;
that Mrs. Clara Erskine Clement designed her crown for _The Queen of the
Adriatic_ at the Hotel Europa; and that Mrs. Oliphant made _The Makers
of Venice_ in a house in the Campo S. Maurizio.
To go back to the men of other days. Addison came to Venice in the
winter of 1699-1700. His remarks upon Italy are entertaining enough,
although of the guide-book order, and he is uniformly silent regarding
his experiences here. As Walpole said of him, he travelled through the
poets and not through Italy; all his ideas were borrowed from the
descriptions, not from the reality, and he saw places as they had been,
not as they were.
Goldoni is one of the few native actors of Venice who merit an encore
here. He is as interesting to-day as he was to the audiences who crowded
the theatres of Venice to
[Illustration: GOLDONI’S STAIRCASE]
witness his performances. He seems to have been born in the Calle dei
Nomboli, at the corner of the Ponte and the Fondamenta S. Tomà, in the
fine old house which contains the medallion portrait of the poet, and an
inscription stating that here Carlo Goldoni first saw the light in 1707.
It is still known as the Palazzo Centani, and it still possesses a
beautiful Gothic staircase, upon the railing of which a little marble
lion still placidly sits. But, as Mr. Howells points out,
notwithstanding the assertions of the guides and the guide-books to the
contrary, the dramatist could hardly have written many of his immortal
comedies here, unless he was unusually precocious even for a poet, for
he was a small child when his family moved to Chioggia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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