with regard to the literature and customs of that Oriental people. They
have an establishment here--a church and convent of ninety monks, very
learned and accomplished men, some of them. They have also a press, and
make great efforts for the enlightening of their nation. I find the
language (which is twin, the literal and the vulgar) difficult, but not
invincible (at least I hope not). I shall go on. I found it necessary to
twist my mind ’round some severe study; and this, as being the hardest I
could devise here, will be a file for the serpent.”
He twisted his mind around the Armenian tongue for upwards of half a
year, a long time for Byron; and his memory is still held dear among the
Armenian brothers, although, of course, none of those are left now who
remember him personally; and there are only a few relics of him to be
found here. A poor portrait, not contemporaneous; his desk; his
inkstand; his pen; and some of his manuscript Armenian exercises are
reverently preserved. An aged monk who came to Venice after Byron’s day
showed me, one sunny afternoon, his own apartment, which he said had
once been the English poet’s. Although large and comfortable, and
scrupulously clean, it is scantily and plainly furnished, and is not
very inviting in itself. It has but one window, which is almost directly
over the main entrance of the establishment, with an outlook on to the
little canal and the open waters beyond. The beautiful old monastery,
with its more beautiful old garden, is peaceful and restful; far from
the madding crowd, and surrounded by an air of intellect and learning
which might tempt one to try to twist one’s mind around something sweet
and nourishing for one’s own sake, if not for Byron’s.
On the 14th June, 1817, Byron wrote to Murray again, this time from “the
banks of the Brenta, a few miles from Venice, where I have colonized for
six months to come.” He was again in Venice in 1818 and 1819, and he
wrote, “I transport my horse to the Lido bordering the Adriatic (where
the fort is), so that I get a gallop of some miles daily along the strip
of beach which reaches to Malamocco.” At this period he was occupying
the centre of the three Mocenigo Palaces, on the Grand Canal.
Moore met Byron in Venice in 1819, and he describes the five or six days
they spent together here. He found Byron with whiskers, and fuller both
in face and person than when he had seen him last, and leading anything
but a reputable life. In Venice portions of _Manfred_, _Childe Harold_,
and _Don Juan_ were written.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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