Bakers and poets, in Venice, seem to have a mutual attraction, for there
are men still living here who remember Gautier when he was a lodger over
the baker’s shop in the Campo S. Moisè, on the left-hand side, and
opposite the corner of the church, as one goes towards the Square of St.
Mark. His landlord, like Byron’s, was a Merchant of Venice in bread and
cakes, in a retail way; and the establishment is still to be seen on the
same spot, its window filled with the staff of life of all sizes and in
every shape, some of the latter often fantastic.
The gondolas of Venice have frequently been compared to hearses, but
Shelley likened them to “moths, of which a coffin might have been the
chrysalis.” Clara Shelley, a daughter of the poet, died “at an inn” in
Venice in 1818, and “she sleeps on bleak Lido, near Venetian seas.”
In _Julian and Maddalo_, written in 1818, Shelley tells us how he--
“ ... rode one evening with Count Maddalo
Upon the bank of sand which breaks the flow
Of Adria towards Venice: a bare strand
Of hillocks, heaped from ever-shifting sand,
Matted with thistles and amphibious weeds,
Such as from earth’s embrace the salt ooze breeds,
Is this; an uninhabited sea-side,
Which the lone fisher, when his nets are dried,
Abandons; and no other object breaks
The waste, but one dwarf tree and some few stakes,
Broken and unrepaired, and the tide makes
A narrow space of level sand thereon,
Where ’twas our wont to ride while day went down.
This ride was my delight.”
The Lido, of course, is here referred to. Later, in the same poem, he
says:
“Servants announced the gondola, and we
Through the fast-falling rain and high-wrought sea
Sailed to the island where the mad-house stands.”
Elsewhere he speaks of “ocean’s nurseling, Venice”; but he never states
where he lodged in Venice during any of his brief visits here.
Scott arrived in Venice on the 19th of May, 1832, and he remained here
until the 23d. His biographer says that he showed no curiosity about
anything but the Bridge of Sighs and the adjoining dungeons, down into
which latter he would scramble, though the exertion was exceedingly
painful to him. It is not recorded where he lodged here, and he went
slowly and sadly home to die.
George Sand and Alfred de Musset spent a number of months, in 1833-34,
at the Hotel Danieli, and there De Musset was very ill of a brain-fever,
caused, according to the story of old residents, by Mme. Dudevant’s
desertion of him, although other, and perhaps better, authorities
declare that she never left his bedside until he was pronounced out of
danger. All statements agree, however, that she was not with him when
his brother came for him, in the spring of 1834, and carried him back to
Paris.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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