[Illustration: THE “NOAH CORNER” OF THE DOGE’S PALACE]
felt it was a pity to go to bed. Venice was more beautiful than romance
had feigned.”
On the 15th May, 1864, she wrote to the Trollopes, from the Hôtel de
Ville: “We reached Venice three days ago, and have the delight of
finding everything more beautiful than it was to us four years ago.” Her
last visit to Venice was made with Mr. Cross, in the summer of 1880,
when her husband was very ill at the Hotel Europa.
Nearly opposite the Europa, on the Grand Canal, stands the Casa
Simitecolo, in the parish of S. Gregorio, where Miss Constance Fenimore
Woolson died, on the 24th January, 1894. She had, during the preceding
year, occupied apartments in the Casa Biondetti, on the same side of the
Canal, but nearer the Suspension-Bridge. As was her own desire, Miss
Woolson was buried in the Protestant Cemetery in Rome.
Mr. Hare says that Châteaubriand was once a guest at the Europa; and
that Wagner, in the same house, wrote a certain Literary-Musical
Landmark, called _Tristram and Isolde_. Wagner died in 1883, in the
Palazzo Vendramin Calerghi, on the Grand Canal, a fine mansion, dating
back to the end of the Fifteenth Century. It is opposite the Museo
Civico, and is sometimes called the “_Non Nobis_ Palace,” because of the
inscription “_Non Nobis Domine, Non Nobis_,” in great letters across its
front.
In the month of May, 1869, Helen Hunt wrote: “We are most comfortably
established at the Hotel Vittoria, _not_ on the Grand Canal, thank
Heaven! When N---- at first said that she did not dare to stay on the
Grand Canal, because she feared too much sea air, I was quite dismayed.
But now I am thankful enough to have dry land, that is, a stone floor
laid on piles, on _one_ side of our house. I look down from any window
into one of the cracks called streets; the people look as if they were
being threaded into the Scriptural needle’s eye, and a hand-organ looks
like a barricade.” “Cracks called streets” is good.
On “Thanksgiving Day, 1873,” Lowell wrote to Thomas Hughes: “To-day the
weather is triumphant, and my views of life consequently more cheerful.
It is so warm that we are going out presently in the gondola, to take up
a few dropped stitches. Venice, after all, is incomparable, and during
this visit I have penetrated into little slits of streets in every
direction on foot. The canals only give one a visiting acquaintance. The
_calli_ make you an intimate of the household.”
In October, 1881, Lowell wrote to Mr. Gilder from Hotel Danieli: “It is
raining; never mind, I am in Venice. Sirocco is doing his worst; I defy
him, I am in Venice. I am horribly done; but what can I expect? I am in
Venice.”
Lord Houghton was living in 1878 at the Pension Suisse, or Hôtel de
Rome, on the Grand Canal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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