In 1878 Browning was at the Albergo dell’ Universo, the Palazzo
Brandolin-Rota, on the shady side of the Grand Canal, just below the
Accademia and the Suspension-Bridge. Here he remained for a fortnight;
and he visited the same hotel again in 1879, 1880, and 1881. In 1885 he
occupied a suite of rooms in the Palazzo Alvise, on the other side of
the Grand Canal, and about midway between the Grand Hotel and the Hôtel
Grande Bretagne; and during the same year he entered into negotiations
for the purchase of the Palazzo Montecuccoli, next door to the Albergo
dell’ Universo, which he used to frequent. He wrote: “It is situated on
the Grand Canal, and is described by Ruskin--to give no other
authority--as ‘a perfect and only rich example of Byzantine Renaissance:
its warm yellow marbles are magnificent.’ And again, ‘an exquisite
example [of Byzantine Renaissance] as applied to domestic architecture.’
So testifies _The Stones of Venice_.” He never owned the palace,
however, the foundations of the house proving insecure.
During the last year of his life he lived in a beautifully restored
palace on the Grand Canal. It is one of the finest private residences in
Europe; but as it is now the home of the poet’s son, it is not, of
course, except in his absence, open to the public view. It contains many
original portraits of Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning, by
different
[Illustration: THE HOUSE IN WHICH BROWNING DIED]
artists and at different ages, a number of bronze and marble busts of
them by the present occupant, and notably their private libraries. Never
was seen such a collection of absolutely invaluable “presentation
copies” from all the writers of note who were the contemporaries and the
friends of the wonderfully gifted husband and wife. To at least one
visitor to Venice it is the most interesting spot in the interesting
city; and he would rather be the possessor of that private library than
of all the rest of the great treasures of Venice put together.
Off the library, and on what, for want of a better term, may be called
the drawing-room floor, is a bow-windowed recess delicately and
exquisitely decorated in white and gold. It was originally the private
chapel of that member of the Rezzonico family who became Pope Clement
XIII.; and, carefully restored, it has been dedicated by the husband and
the son to the memory of Mrs. Browning. It is plainly visible from the
larger and the smaller canal; but it was not intended for the world to
see, and what is its nature, and what its contents, I have no right yet,
and no wish here, to disclose.
On the side of the Browning Palace, above the little Canal of S.
Barnaba, and immediately below the windows of the poet’s bedroom, is a
tablet with this inscription,
“Robert Browning died in this house 12th December, 1889.
“Open my heart and you will see
Graved inside of it ‘Italy.’”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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