Lodges in the WildernessScully, W. C. (William Charles)
History
Lodges in the Wilderness
Scully, W. C. (William Charles)
Natural history -- South Africa; South Africa -- Description and travel
The quaint little collection of ramshackle buildings forming the missing
station, was perched on a ledge just below where the more or less
gradual descent of the T'Oums Mountain falls steeply into the gorge, at
the bottom of which the dry bed of the Anys River lies. In the centre
stood, skeleton-like, the inevitable unfinished church, its narrow
gables uplifted like clamorous hands to heaven in an apparently vain
appeal for funds.
The groaning, bumping wagon came to a halt before a low cottage built of
sun-dried bricks and thatched with reeds. From it emerged a figure
startling in its incongruity. This was a tall, elderly, erect man
dressed in black broad-cloth, with a bell-topper and a very voluminous
white choker. He was coloured; that was quite evident, but the stately
dignity of his stride as he advanced, and the courtly grace of his
demeanour when he greeted us, could not have been improved upon by a
Chesterfield. Self-confidence and a complete ease of manner were
apparent in every word, in every graceful gesture. He spoke in High
Dutch, before which my homely "taal" faltered, abashed. I should say
his age was nearer seventy than sixty. This was the Reverend Mr Hein,
Resident Missionary of Kuboos and Dictator of the Richtersveld.
Feeling somewhat subdued, we followed Mr Hein to his dwelling, where he
ushered us through the lowly portal. The room we entered was small and
poorly furnished, but scrupulously clean. The thong-bottomed sofa and
chairs were evidently home-made; although rough in point of workmanship
they were strong and comfortable. The walls were garnished with
illuminated Bible texts and portraits of the Royal Family. The floor
was of clay; the thatch of the roof could be seen through a gridiron of
rafters.
Mr Hein took the head of the table and played the host to perfection.
We had evidently been expected,--but how information as to our projected
visit could have reached Kuboos, was more than I could fathom. However,
we sat at the hospitable board and regaled ourselves with excellent
coffee, rye bread and honey. The members of the family,--two fairly
young men and two middle-aged damsels,--joined us. Mrs Hein was, alas,
no more. She had died under a weight of years, so we were informed, a
few months previously. The sons and daughters were darker in hue than
their father. They were obviously ill at ease before us, strangers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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