Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
The transshipment of ourselves and followers and baggage was
duly effected, and in the afternoon of the 18th of January the
_Yaynan-Sekia_ left her moorings. We only proceeded as far as Mengoon,
on the right bank, a few miles from the capital. Thus far we had the
company of Mr. Manouk, an Armenian gentleman, who held the office
of _kala woon_, or foreign minister. We duly visited the huge ruin
of solid brickwork, which, as Colonel Yule says, represents the
extraordinary folly of King Mentaragyi, the founder of Amarapura in
1787.
Intended for a gigantic pagoda, it was left unfinished, in consequence
of a prediction that its completion would be fatal to the royal
founder; the earthquake of 1839 split the huge cube of solid brickwork,
and it is now a fantastic ruin.
Yule gives the dimensions of the lowest of the five encircling
terraces as four hundred feet square; if completed, the whole edifice
would have been five hundred feet high. Near this is the great bell,
twelve feet high, and sixteen across at the lips, and weighing ninety
tons.[9]
The most interesting object is the Seebyo pagoda, built by the
grandson and successor of Mentaragyi in 1816, and named after his
wife. The substructure from which the pagoda rises is circular, and
consists of six successive concentric terraces. Each terrace is five
feet above the one below, and six feet in breadth, and is surrounded
by a stone parapet of a wavy design. In the niches of each terrace
are images, fabulous dragons, birds, and _beloos_, or monsters. By
a rough measurement the walled enclosure is four hundred yards in
circumference, but an open space of thirty-five yards deep intervenes
between the wall and the first terrace. The design of the pagoda is
intended to represent the mythical Myen Mhoo Doung, or Meru Mountain,
the central pillar of the universe, and the seven encircling ranges
of mountains, or the six continents, each of which is guarded by a
monster, the first by the dragon, the second by the bird Kalon. It
might be also suggested that those terraces may represent the six happy
abodes of nats which form successive Elysiums below the seat of Brahma.
From the rising ground above Mengoon a magnificent panorama unfolds
itself: the valley from the dry and treeless Tsagain hills, a few
miles to the rear, spreads out for fifteen miles in width to the
eastern line of mountains, which, emerging from the north bank of the
Myit-ngé, stretch away as far as the eye can reach to the north-east.
The long flowing sweep of these summits singularly contrasts with the
irregularly peaked outline of the Myait-loung hills, south of the
Myit-ngé. Immediately beneath the spectator, the Irawady, curving under
the western hills, broadens, till opposite to the capital its main
banks are nearly three miles and a half apart.
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