Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
In Bhamô itself there were a number of Chinese merchants, who were
unlikely to favour any project which threatened to admit the hated
barbarians to a share of their monopoly and profits. This may give
some idea of the state of things which we found on our arrival. Our
illusions as to a speedy or easy progress were soon dissipated, and
after a formal visit from the two tsitkays, or magistrates, ruling
the northern and southern divisions of the town, it became evident
that we must prepare for a long stay at Bhamô. The royal order to
provide transport had only been received by the Woon on the eve of
his departure on his fatal expedition to Momeit. Nothing, therefore,
had been done; nor could they venture to act until the new governor
arrived. The next best thing was to insist on their carrying into
effect the royal order to build a house for us, which had not been
done. This they reluctantly performed, and in a few days a bamboo
edifice was run up close to the Woon’s house, consisting of a central
hall, with three bedrooms on either side, and a verandah at each end of
the house. A small outhouse accommodated the servants and baggage, and
the guard was quartered in an adjacent zayat; a tent pitched in front
of the house served as a refectory. Till these quarters were prepared,
we remained on board the steamer, receiving crowds of visitors. In
the press a heavy log of timber fell on a little girl and fractured
her thigh; she was at once carried on board, and the broken limb duly
set. This incident speedily established the reputation of the foreign
doctor, and for the rest of our stay patients flocked in every day,
some coming from long distances, and blind and lame eagerly expecting
to be made young and whole. A great deal of blindness had resulted
from small-pox. Ophthalmia was also prevalent. A common affection was
a form of ulcerous inflammation, chiefly on the legs, amongst those
whose occupation led them into the jungles. This was so intractable
as to incline one to attribute it to poisonous thorns; but subsequent
personal experience proved that slight bruises and abrasions are most
apt in this country to become painful and tedious. During the whole
time no case of fever was treated, nor did any occur among our party
of one hundred men. This speaks volumes for the salubrity of the place
during the dry season. The highest temperature experienced was 80°
Fahrenheit, the average maximum being not more than 66° Fahrenheit,
while the nights were very pleasant, cooling down, if we may put it
so, to fifty or forty-five degrees. Fever is rather more prevalent
during the rains, when the Irawady rolls down a huge volume of water, a
mile and half broad, and the low lands are submerged twelve to fifteen
feet.[16]
But this is a digression somewhat professional, and it is needful to
revert to the narrative and try to give the reader some notion of our
surroundings and proceedings until we got away fairly on the march.
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