Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace BrowneAnderson, John
History
Mandalay to Momien: A narrative of the two expeditions to western China of 1868 and 1875 under Colonel Edward B. Sladen and Colonel Horace Browne
Anderson, John
Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- Burma; Browne, Horace Albert, 1832-1914 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Burma -- Description and travel; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- Burma; Sladen, E. B. (Edward Bosc), 1827-1890 -- Travel -- China -- Yunnan Sheng; Yunnan Shen
Bhamô, known by the Chinese as Tsing-gai, and in Pali called Tsin-ting,
is a narrow town about one mile long, occupying a high prominence on
the left bank of the Irawady. Instead of walls, there is a stockade
about nine feet high, consisting of split trees driven side by side
into the ground and strengthened with crossbeams above and below.
This paling is further defended on the outside by a forest of bamboo
stakes fixed in the ground and projecting at an acute angle. However
formidable to barefooted natives, the stockade does not always exclude
tigers, which pay occasional visits, and during our stay killed a woman
as she sat with her companions. There are four gates, one at either end
and two on the eastern side, which are closed immediately after sunset;
a guard is stationed at the northern and southern gates, while several
look-out huts perched at intervals on the stockade are manned when
an attack of the Kakhyens is expected. The population numbers about
two thousand five hundred souls, occupying about five hundred houses,
which form three principal streets. There are many thickly wooded
by-paths, and bridges over a swamp in the centre of the town, leading
to scattered houses, dilapidated pagodas, zayats, and monasteries.
The street following the course of the bank, with high flights of steps
ascending from the river, has a row of houses on either side, with a
row of teak planks laid in the middle to afford dry footing during the
rains. The houses of the central portion are all small one-storied
cottages, built of sun-dried bricks, with tiled concave roofs with
deep projecting eaves. Through an open window the proprietor can be
seen calmly smoking behind a little counter, for this is the Chinese
quarter, and the colony of perhaps two hundred Celestials here offer
for sale Manchester goods, Chinese yarns, ball tea, opium, Yunnan
potatoes, lead, and vermilion, &c. They also regulate the cotton
market, and the traffic in this product, which is brought both from
the south and the north, is carried on even during the rains. The head
Chinaman, who is responsible for order amongst his compatriots, is a
man of great influence. He and his fellow merchants, professing great
friendship, invited us to a grand feast and theatrical entertainment
given in the Chinese temple, or rather in the theatre which formed a
portion thereof. We entered through what was to us a novelty in this
country, a circular doorway, into a paved court. The theatrical portion
of the building was over the entrance to a second court, facing the
sanctuary, which is on a higher level. A covered terrace surrounded
the holy place on three sides, with recesses containing seated figures
nearly life size, with rubicund faces and formidable black beards and
moustaches. Each of these was carefully protected from dust by being
enshrined in a square box closed in front with gauze netting. Besides
the theatrical entertainment, which was interminable, we were regaled
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account