=Insulating a joint.=—A piece of rubber tape about 2 inches long is used, with ends cut diagonally. The tape is stretched, and starting at a point about three-fourths inch back on the insulation, with the long edge of the tape on the inside, it is wound around the joint under tension, each turn covering the previous turn about one-third. The wrapping is continued until the same amount of insulation is covered on each side, when the wrapping is worked backward over the joint and the end is secured by pressing it firmly a short time or placing a drop of cement under it. =Making a water-tight joint.=—The two ends of wire are scraped clean for about three-fourths of an inch and joined by a brass jointer, which is then crimped. The insulation is scraped clean about 2 inches on each side of the jointer and covered with rubber cement. (Cement is not absolutely essential.) Two strips of rubber tape are cut about 6 inches long, with diagonal ends, and stretched. Beginning about 1½ inches along the insulation, the tape, with the long edge on the inside, is wrapped firmly and tightly until about one-fourth of an inch of the insulation on the other side is covered; it is wound back and forth over the joint so as to taper toward the ends. The other piece of tape is used, beginning at the other end and wrapping as before. The finished insulation should be thick at the middle and taper toward the ends. It should be firm and tight. The insulation is covered with tin foil, wrapped with protective tape, and vulcanized for about 30 seconds. The protective tape and tin foil are then removed, the joint inspected, and new protective tape wrapped on, using two pieces, starting at opposite ends and finally ending each beyond the center. =Making a Turk’s-head.=—The cable is trimmed square and a wrapping of four or five turns of marline is made about 15 inches from the end. The collar, flat side first, is slipped on until it rests on the marline; the iron wires are bent back regularly over the collar. The jute wrapping is unwound to the collar and trimmed, and all the iron wires are cut with the pliers, removing all but 4 inches and 6 inches from alternate strands; the iron wires are bent separately to fit the collar closely (making two right angles with the pliers), and the ends arranged smoothly along the cable; the end of a piece of marline is engaged under one of the wires near the collar and wrapped regularly and closely around the cable, and the free end of marline secured with two half hitches. About 15 feet of marline are required for single conductor cable; 24 feet for multiple cable.