Many-Storied Mountains: The Life of Glacier National ParkBeaumont, Greg
History
Many-Storied Mountains: The Life of Glacier National Park
Beaumont, Greg
Glacier National Park (Mont.); Natural history -- Montana -- Glacier National Park (Mont.)
Not until we have passed the Loop and are moving past the blackened
snags of a recent burn do we realize the stature of this forest. The
long road down will take us into a valley much deeper than any on the
eastern side. Near Avalanche Creek are trees we have seen nowhere else
in the park—giant western redcedars, western hemlocks with their nodding
tops, monstrous black cottonwoods with bark so deeply furrowed that it
looks hewn by hatchet.
We take a long ride down the valley, past the low pyramid of Mt.
Stanton, final peak in the Livingston Range. Near the outlet end of Lake
McDonald, birch and aspen again appear in numbers, and the road enters a
crowded stand of lodgepole pine.
Our memories cluttered with mountains, waterfalls, and snowfields, we do
not quite realize the significance of this 80-kilometer journey. We have
crossed the boundaries of several different plant-and-animal
communities, spanning a range of climate that would be encountered on a
5,000-kilometer north-south journey at sea level.
At first glance the various trees, wildflowers, and animals seem
randomly distributed, scattered about like the distant mountains. But
mountainous terrain represents an organized high-rise approach to life.
From the lowest, most protected valley to the highest wind-and-ice-cut
summit, the life-forms align themselves, each according to its own
climatic tolerance.
Here too can be seen the great cycles of nature: fire and regrowth, the
building of soil and its erosion, the incessant duel of the eaters and
the eaten.
In the following sections we will spend some time in these various
communities, from prairie to tundra.
Groves and Grasslands: The Prairie Sea
There is something about spring on the prairie that gets me up before
dawn. I like to watch the seasons change their guard over the landscape,
from the wintry cold of pre-dawn dark to the spring-scented morning air
to the hot summer-foretaste of the noon May sun.
Hoarfrost surrounds these patches of pasqueflowers, blue goblets on
downy stems. On this windless night, frost has formed everywhere,
reclaiming for a time its vast winter range, sparkling over the green
handiworks of spring.
But the god of the growing grasslands is the sun, and it now proclaims
itself, stretching out to make the mountains shine. With its assault the
frost collapses, becoming bright beads on grass tip and leaf joint by
which a beetle might refresh itself.
Spring is best perceived ant-level, at its ground beginnings, where the
bright yellow-green tips of new grass shoots reclaim the winter-blighted
land. I look closely at a drag line of spider silk; a necklace of
dewdrops slides down, collects to a moment’s greatness, in which I
briefly see a curved horizon, the morning sunburst, and myself, before
it falls away.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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