Many-Storied Mountains: The Life of Glacier National ParkBeaumont, Greg
History
Many-Storied Mountains: The Life of Glacier National Park
Beaumont, Greg
Glacier National Park (Mont.); Natural history -- Montana -- Glacier National Park (Mont.)
During this time of initial uplift an amazing process is going on deep
underground. A major fault has developed, fracturing the buckled layers
of rock. A vast mountain plate begins to slide eastward, over-riding and
submerging the rock layers to the east and opening the wide trench that
is today the North Fork Valley. Known as the Lewis Overthrust, this
gigantic earth-force has created an unusual situation: ancient rock
strata lying atop recent rock strata.
Now less than 3 minutes of film remain. The arrival of the ice is
imminent. We look at the landscape of featureless mountains and wonder
at the dramatic difference that this last 3 million years will make. We
do not see the familiar forests and lakes, the savage peaks, and the
broad, deep valleys of this present land. These mountains are gentle,
arid, and shallow-valleyed. The vague outlines are there; we recognize
the general alignments of the drainage systems, the bloated domes from
which sharp peaks will be cut. The mountains are connected to one
another by blunt ridges and smooth saddles, and the shadows they cast
are dull, dunelike.
Suddenly the ice is there, filling the landscape, with only the
mountaintops protruding. Four times in these last 3 minutes of film the
ice sheets advance and retreat, each time leaving an altered landscape.
Strange lakes and forests fill the gaps between the glacial invasions.
Then we see the mountains we now know come into being rapidly, as if the
land were being hacked into shape by giant cleavers.
After this flicker of Pleistocene time, the film ends, the forests
return, and familiar lakes shine beneath the sun again—these lakes and
forests we had thought to be timeless.
■
Up springs the morning wind from Hidden Valley, making the nearby alpine
fir branches whiz with its passing and shattering the perfect reflection
of Bearhat Peak on the pond. From where I sit, it is a short distance to
Hidden Pass; so I leave the pond and walk to the overlook to see again
the fine basin quarried by an ancient glacier.
Hidden Lake, deep, far below, so blue, fits into its cliffed, crooked
valley like a polished boomerang. Closely ringed by ridge and
peak—distant Sperry Glacier and pointed Gunsight peering up from the
southern jumble, and broad Bearhat impossibly close—this lovely lake is
almost lost amid such sharp proclamations of rock. Its outlet gorge
gives a narrow view across the angled, hidden valleys of Avalanche and
McDonald, past the pyramid of Stanton, to the low, faraway undulations
of the Whitefish Range.
Glaciation is a cruel master of mountains, biting deeply into their bulk
and leaving sheer, spectacular contours when the glaciers disappear. The
landforms here attest to their power, everywhere exhibiting the effects
of glaciation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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