Many-Storied Mountains: The Life of Glacier National ParkBeaumont, Greg
History
Many-Storied Mountains: The Life of Glacier National Park
Beaumont, Greg
Glacier National Park (Mont.); Natural history -- Montana -- Glacier National Park (Mont.)
In eating back the mountain headwall, alpine glaciers formed rounded
depressions, called cirques. Unlike the narrow clefts left by running
water, these broad, deep basins look as though they were made by
ice-cream scoops gouging into the rock. Hidden, Ptarmigan, Iceberg, and
Avalanche Lakes sit in well-developed cirque basins, and many mountains
are dimpled by the beginnings of other cirques—the conspicuous
amphitheater on the south shoulder of Heaven’s Peak, for example.
Occupying all major drainage systems, glaciers modified the contour of
the valleys, changing them from their narrow, stream-cut V-shapes into
broad U-shapes. Into these wide main valleys, waterfalls plunge from
higher, smaller valleys. Like rivers, flowing glaciers have tributaries.
Lacking the ice mass and cutting power of the main glaciers, these
tributary ice fingers could not bite as deeply into the bedrock. When
the ice melted, hanging valleys were left stranded high above the main
valley floor. Hidden Lake sits in one of these hanging valleys, and from
it Hidden Creek plunges 750 meters into Avalanche Basin toward McDonald
Creek.
On my many previous visits to this pass I have been too busy enjoying
the wildflowers, the weather, or the scenery to realize what an open
textbook of glaciation is everywhere displayed.
I stand here on a small saddle of a pass. Wherever glaciers met, passes,
or cols, were created. A high, notched pass like this one (or
Swiftcurrent or Gunsight) reveals recent connections. Broad, lower
passes, such as Logan, resulted where the ice early overran the mountain
ridge and had a chance to work longer.
Where two glaciers worked on opposing sides of a ridge and failed to
meet, they formed an arête—a thin, steep-walled remnant resembling a saw
blade. Another ice age would probably consume the park’s many thin
arêtes, such as the Garden Wall and Ptarmigan Wall; but it would also
create new ones from existing ridges.
Further testimony to the sculpting power of ice is presented by Mt.
Reynolds, looming to the east. The most dramatic feature of a glaciated
landscape is the pyramid-shaped mountain called a horn—and Reynolds is a
perfect example. Horns were formed when three or more glaciers cloaked
the mountain, excavating its sides toward its core and gradually
transforming its original domed shape into a sheer-sided peak. Glacier
has many remarkable horns, from the sleek spire of St. Nicholas in the
south to exquisite Kinnerly in the northern Kintla valley.
Sperry Glacier stares back at me from the flank of Gunsight. Glaciers
found in the park today are not remnants of the last ice phase, which
ended here about 8,000 years ago, but are newly formed, having come into
existence some 4,000 years ago. They reflect a cooling trend in the
present climate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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