“MY DEAR FRIEND,--With Grivolas I have just returned from a pilgrimage
to Saint-Gent. It is a wonderful, sublime, and poetical experience, and
that nocturnal journey bearing the image of the saint has left on my
soul a unique impression. The mayor lent us a carriage, and we followed
with the pilgrims through fields and woods by the light of the moon, to
the song of nightingales, from eight o’clock in the evening till past
midnight. It was so impressive and mysterious--strange and
beautiful--that one felt the tears start. Four youths lightly clothed in
nankin, running like hares, flying like birds, set out with the sacred
burden, preceded by a man on horseback, galloping and signalling their
approach with pistol-shots. The people of the farms hurried out to see
the saint pass, men, women, children and old people, stopped the
carriers, kissing the statue, praying, weeping, gesticulating. Then off
went the bearers again more swiftly than ever, while the women cried
after them:
“‘Happy journey, boys.’
“And the men added:
“‘May the good saint uphold you.’
“And so they run till they pant for breath. Oh! that journey through the
night, and that little troop going forth into the darkness under the
protection of God and Saint-Gent, into the desert, no one knew whither.
I assure you there was in all this a profound note of poetry that made
an indelible impression on my mind.”
The second pilgrimage of Saint-Gent takes place in September, and it was
to that we went. Now as Saint-Gent had only been canonised by the voice
of the people, the priests take very little notice of him, and the
townsfolk still less. It is the people of the soil who recognise the
right of the good saint to be canonised, he who was simply one of
themselves, spoke and worked even as they, and who, with but moderate
delays, sends them the rain they pray for, and cures their fevers. His
cult is so fervent that, in the narrow gorge dedicated to the legend of
his memory, sometimes as many as 20,000 pilgrims are assembled.
Tradition records that Saint-Gent slept on a bed of stone with his head
down and his feet up; so all the pilgrims, in a spirit of devotion not
unmixed with gaiety, go and lie like fallen trees in the bed of
Saint-Gent, which is a hollow formed in the sloping rock; the women also
place themselves there, carefully holding each other’s skirts in a
decorous position.
We, too, lay in the stone bed like the others, and I went with my mother
to see the “Spring of the Wolf,” and the “Spring of the Cow.” Then on to
the Chapel of Saint-Gent, surrounded by a group of old walnut-trees, and
containing his tomb. And lastly, we visited the “terrible rock,” as the
old canticle calls it, from whence flows the miraculous fount which
cures fever.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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